What are some easy guns to use that I can get easily?
what if I wanted to limit myself to a sovjet arsenal?
Which rifle is the best for beginners
Something that shoots .22 LR, cheap ammo, no recoil, can be used in indoor ranges. Good for learning.
Meant to fold up for concealed carry of an SMG
>>2144> conceled carry SMG
Why not an uzi then?> foldable, light, new standard bullets
Foldable? Why is it THAT big of a fucking advantage if you can… disassamble the others if you wanna save space… you already have to fiddle with this one when you fold it open…
Light? So what? It's an SMG! If you can only hold handguns but want the dakka, there are options available for that…
Maybe the issue with bullets of the new standards WOULD be an issue that this thing can solve… but wait 2 years for your "old" SMG manufacturer to come out with the previous models that confine to the standard.
Seriously… this is a gun only for incels… made by possible incels.
Honestly that’s dumb, don’t limit yourself for some LARP learn how to actually use guns and gain proper knowledge before hand
Can one of you LARPing sissies give this man an answer already?
Unless you live near Eastern Europe or you're looking to become a collector, don't. But if it's that important to you, get a CZ-75 instead: 9mm, comfy trigger; a great starter carry gun depending on the variant you get.
First some general advice, whatever firearms you use (if you identify them specifically) you should research enough that you know the basics of how they work and any distinct quirks. One thing you should also do is go on youtube or some other site and watch videos of people using those guns, including loading and unloading. You should also look up some kind of crash course on firearm usage and safety to know how it works so you don't write goofy shit like a character scratching their head with the muzzle of their pistol.
>What would happen if someone fired off an entire magazine of a Type 56 AK when engaged in combat in an enclosed space (interior of a cargo ship in this case) where no-one participating has hearing protection? Does everyone just go deaf from it?
Not permanently deaf, but there would definitely be hearing damage. Hearing loss is more the kind of thing you get over time from repeated eardrum abuse. But you'd get temporary hearing loss for anybody near the gun. Surprisingly small calibers can cause you do go mostly deaf for at least few seconds if you're close enough, like the person firing the gun.>How hard is it for someone with no practical experience (but plenty in theoretical) in firearms to handle the recoil of a 7.62x39 round? What about in full auto?
Full auto in any caliber will fuck your aim completely if you have no hands-on experience. Even with experience, it will make it impossible to aim
unless it's a fairly small caliber. You don't fire on full auto to aim
your shots. You generally just point
in the direction and hope the hail of gunfire makes up for poor aim, and that's if you're actually trying to hit someone. Most of the time full-auto is used for suppressing fire (something like 99% of bullets fired in combat don't hit anybody) - you are effectively doing area denial by making it too deadly to occupy the space. The space being anything from an open are to poking your head out from cover to shoot back. You use full auto to pin people so that someone can reposition to get a better shot on them, or just pray one of the bullets hits. If you are spraying full auto trying to kill someone you are usually wasting bullets and fucking up your aim for no reason. The exception would be something like a submachine gun or a machine pistol that makes up for small caliber stopping power with a larger number of hits. You would still be better off with semi-auto for that because the tradeoff of inaccuracy and lack of control usually negate any benefit from rate of fire (if you are good you can fire semi-auto very fast), and the farther you are from the target, the more you're going to miss. In practice burst fire is more useful for actually hitting a target than full auto. You can't really get more than a few shots off before your aim goes to shit, even with small calbier. Also to note, guns heat up a lot when fired, especially rapidly. The heating of the barrel and other mechanisms causes some miniscule warping that reduces the accuracy of the gun itself, independent of the user's ability to aim.>Is .38 special enough to stop a man in one shot? If not can you recommend a better revolver cartridge?
Depends on a lot of factors, like where you hit, the grain in the round (how fast it fires basically), the kind of bullet, if he's wearing protection of any kind, etc. For an average unarmored civilian shot center of mass yeah. For someone with training, high on adrenaline, it depends on whether the bullet hits a vital organ or a major blood vessel. It probably won't stop them instantly, but pretty fast. This is the kind of thing where you have some wiggle room because the body is so intricate that you see all kinds of weird shit with bullets barely missing a kill shot. Just don't rely on this too much. If you want to make sure people die in one shot, they should be shot with hollow points and I'd bump it up to .45 or so. The .38 special is the round of gangsters who are not so much in gunfights but are assassinating each other across a table in a restaurant. In a firefight you want the other guy to drop ASAP because every second is more time for him to shoot you back.>How big is the danger of getting hit by ricochet when in a tight corridor?
Depends on the ammunition and the material of the corridor, and how much of an angle the projectile hits the wall at. If it's metal or something you are liable to get ricochets, but with a lot less penetration because the bullet is probably tumbling instead of flying true. If you're talking about rifle rounds, they would probably punch through the wall unless hitting it at a shallow angle, meaning the target has to be pretty far away.>How do you actually perform a speed reload on an AK?
You can find videos of people reloading on the internet, probably better than hearing someone describe it. IDK what a speed reload is when you have a magazine-based rifle, though. Those reload pretty fast just reloading normally.>How do you tell which of the casings inside your revolver's chamber are spent ones so you can remove them individually instead of dropping all of the rounds out of the chamber? Is there some indicator on the primer to tell you that it's been used?
Yes, when the revolver fires, the hammer strikes the casing. Typically a revolver uses center-fire rounds, which have a distinctive (sometimes 2 visibly distinct metals) primer cap in the center of the rim. In an un-fired cartridge you will see a flat primer. If it's been fired, there will be a dent where the hammer struck to make it fire. If the ammunition is rimfire, there's no visible primer, but there would be a dent on the back of the casing still, usually along the rim. Additionally, like mentioned above, shit will be fucking hot. You can get (usually mild) burns from touching fired casings.
Do be aware that different revolvers load and unload differently. Usually the older ones are the ones made to unload individual bullets and those aren't very conducive to selecting your rounds to fire (see the classic colt single action army, the cowboy gun). Modern revolvers usually have swing-out barrels and unload casings all at once by pushing part of the cylinder against all the casings to slide them out together. These may or may not have the space for you to grab the back of the casing and pull it out manually. If you have a character who loads a revolver with specific rounds and selectively fires them, you might want them to use a break-loading revolver (pic related - a BB gun, but illustrates the point), which is more specialized but also more useful for such a purpose. These usually poke the casings out (or use springs to eject) making it easier to select individual rounds. Bear in mind they are less sturdy than other styles and usually for smaller caliber as a result, although Smith and Wesson made a .45 like this. They're also not really used any more, so this is more appropriate for some kind of custom-designed weapon, as is the need to fire specific individual rounds from the cylinder.>Is obrez just a meme or is it actually useful in close combat?
It's sensible enough assuming it makes sense in context - if mosins (or similar rifles) are common enough where a character is it might be easier, but generally handguns are available enough to just get one of those. Any shortened barrel will drop the gun's power and accuracy, and using a pistol with bolt action is not very practical, especially at close range where firing the short barrel gun is most effective.
Oops, forgot to answer this part of the question:>How hard is it for someone with no practical experience (but plenty in theoretical) in firearms to handle the recoil of a 7.62x39 round?
Rifle rounds have the benefit of being fired by rifles, meaning the bigger the gun the more mass to absorb the recoil. They also often have shoulder stocks and other designs that help. Firing one shot at a time is not bad with a round that size and typical rifle that uses it (by design). It's (bigger) pistols, shotguns, and full auto where the kick is an issue (especially to a noob). If you're firing single shots as a newbie you are more likely to get sore from the kick than the kick itself to fuck up your aim.
Newbie aiming problems are more a factor of not having muscle memory than recoil. There's various things you can do wrong and have to learn to do right, like pulling your aim to the side when you pull the trigger. This is much much less of an issue with rifles than pistols because you use both hands steadying your aim at different points.
>Oh yeah, and the setting is in the 90s so any recommendation for operator gear for maximum operating for that period?
Here's a big list of '90s firearms, including the year and country. If you want to make characters look silly, give them the P90.https://www.militaryfactory.com/smallarms/guns-1990-1999.asp
If you are American, a STANAG-compatible 5.56 rifle is a must, the AR is it right now. And of course, a 9mm pistol.
Also do not forget the most important tool of them all, far more important than ammo or the individual weapon: people
People power is what makes a military unit a unit. Do not neglect to bring friends with guns and train small unit tactics. Fatties and weaklings do not belong. One heart, one mind, one fist.
Still in EU? Probably 5.56, but it's good to cross-train and go for whatever the police/military are carrying in your area. Any NATO nation should stay 5.56/7.62NATO. However, even Russia and other nations switched too 5.45, which is a very neat round, comparable to 5.56. I say learn whatever your country uses first, and cross train with whatever is commonly used around you. 9mm is also GOAT.
I'm considering a glock for target shooting. Recommendations?
>What the fuck is this argument
The point of the argument is that just as with government invasion of privacy, the opposite is also true. Mass armament (as if ready for war) is provocational, you might as well be fucking Sparta. If, after the Revolution, Proles must cling to guns in the paranoid idea that "can't let the guvement do something bad!" there is no point to the Revolution, no security, no peace, nothing.
Ankids and their "just skip to stateless systems !!!!" are morons
>are you even Leftist?
See >>9705… and the rest of the arguments on the thread you knee-jerk reaction idiot.
Looking for something cheap, something like a PSA AR-15. Any other suggestions/alternatives if this isn't really that good?
PSA AR-15 seems to be the best option for low budget specially if you order the parts sepretly and assemble it by yourself, I think that would be like 350 bucks
Genuinely go to a range and try them out,idk how many people I know bought a glock off a recommendation then hated it. G19 btw
Anyone living in riots/protesting areas in us? How’s it going for you guys, here it’s been tense since it started specially when militias started coming in
Lame I know but since I live in the UK does anybody have a recommendation for a good Air Rifle?
tbh i wish i was cool enough to be a glowie, i am just trying to bring some life to this thread. >>5351
i'd suggest watching youtube vids, some of those small game hunting ones are interesting
Holy shit, I went to the gun range for the first time ever and shot about 50 rounds. I was nervous as hell and flinching in the beginning, but near the end started easing up a bit. I rented a cz 75.
I had a few questions though. I thought the safety could be engaged with the slide locked back, but it didn’t work. Also with the safety engaged the slide would not rack back? How come the slide has to be released before the safety can be turned on?
Also, I had a DA/SA and can vaguely remember, but I think the safety can be turned on while the gun is in either SA mode or decocked in DA mode. Can someone confirm?
I think the gun I rented didn’t have a decocker, but during the range I decocked it manually to practice.
Also I didn’t realize but it took quite a bit of strength to rack the slide back and lock it. I’m sure I was doing it wrong as I was kinda blocking the ejection port.
I want to rig up some glowing targets so I can practice shoot at glowies, how does that stick figure in the video glow?
The problem with the PSA rifles is that most of them don't come with chrome-lined barrels. For high volume of fire, this is a must, but that is an edge use-case. Remember also that you should get a:
In that order, unless you're using NVGs, in which case, buy that with a PEQ-15 or something. The russian stuff does not have limits on how strong it can be, so import and use at your own leisure.
Do not worry about quirks so much. Some weapons can be placed into safe at any point, and some cannot. Learn the weapon you are using first and foremost. Big picture, then details to fill in that picture. You are still at the big picture stage, so stick to that for now. If you are flinching, go for something smaller and do a lot of dry-fire practice. Dime/washer drills are the bread and butter of dry-fire practice. Get on that first, and then worry about the other stuff. And remember to gather others that can do the job. Don't just gather people you like, but those that have the physical and mental fortitude for combat, and while you're at it, find out if you have it in you as well.
Got the solution to the AK vs AR debate: An AR chambered in 7.62x39
Those are actually quite terrible. If you're in the US, go for an AR. Same goes for pretty much any NATO country where they are popular. If you live in fucking Mongolia or some shit, then yeah, get an AK somehow. But here's the thing, most people here aren't looking to join a military organization. They're just looking for self-defense. If that's the case, then just get yourself a good, concealable handgun.
Oh really, is there any reasoning for why some can engage safeties at any time and others not, any examples of a few? On the cz 75 I rented once the safety was on the slide would not rack back either and was locked. I think it could be on in both sa and da mode with hammer cocked back or decocked. However, there was a “half cocked” option on the hammer as well. What’s the purpose of the half cocked option?
The dime drill seems cool, but the range is kinda expensive and I don’t really want to dry fire there much of the time lol.
As for the reasoning, I wouldn't be able to tell you with any kind of certainty. I'm not a firearms designer, nor have I ever been involved in procurement of that level. As for weapons that can be placed on safe, the M9 can be placed on safe at any time, and the hammer should go to half cock when this is done. You will not be able to manipulate it while the slide is back for mechanical reasons.
As for dry-fire practice, don't do it at the range, do it at home. Even a CO2 airsoft pistol can help you with this, but obviously my experience is only with real firearms, so this is second-hand information. If you can, get yourself your own weapon. Pistols are great, but harder to handle for most people. That being said, if that's your end-goal, start there and build up your skills. Get training if you can, and remember that you'll get better little by little.
Thinking about getting my Mosin professionally cleaned, should I?
How bad is it? It's a nice milsurp gun, but don't throw money at it.
>>5594>not the Owen
You're making it too complicated…
a decent gun but the top mounted ammunition is a pain for anything remotely like a picattiny rail. You could modify it to be placed underneath but that's more of a hassle than just making the PPS (2.7 work hours with 6 kg of scrap metal and a metal lathe.
The bolt is a bit sticky, and there are little patches of cosmoline on it.
I'll probably just clean it myself, though.
Good shit. Do you own just the Mosin?
Yep, along with an air gun.
Thinking about getting some more milsurp one of these days.
Maybe a yugo m48 or a SKS, maybe even a Mosin PU or carbine if I could find it.
Good stuff. I would collect more milsurp, but I can never justify it to myself.
Should we buy a registered or unregistered gun? In my state it’s legal to own an unregistered gun but it has to be kept at home and cant be transported anywhere.
The question is would it be more advantageous for you to register the guns so the glowies know you are armed/not to mess with you easily, or to have an unregistered weapon so you can get the drop on people instead? Seems like there are a few places online you can buy unregistered guns. Any risk in doing so? How do we check an unregistered weapon wasnt used for murder or something?
Wait, are you outside the US? Sorry, not familiar with any of this. In either case, gun tracing is trash and doesn't work. Never register your weapons if you can avoid it without breaking the law. Stay within the law as much as you can.
You know what the world needs? A guide on the construction of firearms, and I'm not talking instructions on how to build such and such a gun.
Every single book on building x, y or z has listed the tools and time it takes to build the gun and each part, but there's no overarching archive of these parts and the tools and time required to build them. There could be three SMG manuals posted right now requiring entirely different parts and labour, but until you've read them all you don't know if you have the correct tools to produce any of them.
There's no reason you can't attach a rifled barrel from a Prof Parabellum manual onto a Luty, but without reading both you wouldn't know. Taking apart the manuals and arranging them so that they're listed by tools and time required would allow for more effiency.
>In 1944, American workers gave the leader of the Soviet Union Joseph Stalin unusual dagger-a revolver.
<The inscription says "death to the fascist invaders">there is an alternative history universe out there somewhere where Stalin killed Hitler with a gunblade
Also see the Holy Sword of Stalingrad. http://www.russianswords.com/Stalin-english.htm
The costumes come from here but they cost like 70 bucks.https://glowyzoey.com/collections/featured-products/products/adult-led-stickman-costume
They're just made of LED strips, which are pretty expensive for something you're going to be shooting at. You could probably get the same effect for less money with some regular bulbs and creativity. Maybe actually get a reusable target.
Holy hell it's got a kriss blade too. Bumiputera Stalin confirmed.
Looks like an AKM mated with a PPS-43
Yeah there's a few different types of furnishings, I don't know if that pic is an old one out of storage or if Kalashnikov Concern made it from old documents just to show off.
Video of their gun: https://en.kalashnikov.media/video/weapons/panoptikum-tkb-517-germana-korobova
Quick rundown:>German A. Korobov, Russian gun designer from Tula, began the development of assault rifles soon after the World War Two,when he designed the TKB-408 bullpup rifle for 1946-47Soviet Army trials. Despite the failure of TKB-408, Korobov continued the development of various assault rifles, both in bullpup and traditional configurations. During late 1940s, he tried gas delayed blowback action in his series of TKB-454 experimental assault rifles, all chambered for standard issue 7.62×39 ammunition. While these rifles displayed some good results in accuracy department, these also showed insufficient reliability. By the 1952, Korobov switched to the Kiraly-type retarded blowback action, with the two-part bolt that uses braking action of the lever, interposed between boltparts and receiver. This action allowed for significant increase of accuracy, as well as simplification of design and production, compared to then-standard KalashnikovAK assault rifles.
>During mid-1950s, Soviet Army initiates newtrials for improved assault rifle design in the same 7.62×39 M43 caliber.Korobov submits his improved TKB-517 rifle, still based on the Kiraly typedelayed blowback action; this weapon was extensively tested against modified KalashnikovAK rifle, as well a number of other designs, and found to be superior toall. Korobov was found to be most accurate and controllable in full automaticmode (primary mode of fire, according to Soviet tactical doctrine), especiallywhen fired from the shoulder or from the hip. It was also significantly lighterand less expensive to make than modified AK. Nevertheless, Soviet Army preferred less effective, but familiar and already well established Kalashnikov AKM over the moreeffective and lighter, but entirely new design.
>TKB-517 is delayed(retarded) blowback operated weapon, that uses two-part bolt system, designed prior to WW2 by Paul Kiraly of Hungary. In this system, bolt has two parts -lighter breech block with breechface and extractor, and heavier bolt carrier. A two-arm lever is interposed between these two parts; lower arm of the lever rests against the receiver when bolt is fully closed. When gun is fired, pressure in the chamber forces the cartridge case backwards and against the breech face.Bolt begins to travel back, but the lever acts as a mechanical disadvantage,transferring the short movement of the light bolt to the longer movement of the heavy bolt carrier. This action is sufficient to slow down initial movement of the breech face before the bullet leaves the barrel. Once the pressure in the barrel is low enough, the lever breaks the contact with the receiver, and therest of recoil cycle both bolt parts complete as a single unit. Similar system later has been used in the French FAMAS assault rifle.receiver of TKB-517 has been made from stamped steel, furniture was made from wood. Charging handle was attached to the bolt carrier at the right side. Safety/ fire mode selector was located above the pistol grip, also at the right side of the gun. TKB-517 used standard AK/AKM type magazines, including large-capacity 40 and 75-round ones, developed for RPK light machine gun.
It uses the same system as this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWQFtRId85U
But I actually found out about the 517 from this gun lol, I'm mostly just curious about what's different between the two. It could be exactly the same for all I know because it was developed after the Soviets captured a bunch in Hungary.
Aren't those iterations from Abakan trails? Not to be pedantic, but AS(M) doesn't really qualify as an AK platform by any stretch and I doubt many of the TKB and AEK prototypes would either.
Recently I bought a rifle. It's PSA's PA-10. I know that PSA is an unreliable company and I should have bought something from a much more reliable company like Zavasta Arms, Cugir, Norinco, etc. In fact, I was saving up for an AKM (preferably an npap85) and had enough to purchase one in early March. Then the panic-buying began and the prices went beyond me, from around $720 to $950 not including tax, mark-up, FFL fees, and whatever else there might be. I would still have liked to save up for one, but they are only available if you wait a month for restock and then another for shipping to a distributer. So I chose to buy the PA-10, which is their AR-10.
[b]The rifle does not reliably push cartridges into battery when loaded. The rifle always goes into battery when unloaded. The rifle slam-fires when autoloading (it did this all of the three times that more than one round was used at a time), but never slam-fired any of the more than fourty times that a round was chambered manually. This was all proven to me Friday, a few days ago. Before that, the Saturday nine days ago, the rifle fired out of battery after 24-26 rounds.[/b] This burst the plastic magazine which burned and bruised my arm. I'm fine :). What isn't fine is having spent what I did on the rifle. The FFL company _did_ cooperate, but the old dude who was the only one cool enough to help has the fucking plague and is dying. He was going to try to find the issue (we didn't even know if the problem was the ammo) and fix the rifle in eight days. He supposedly replaced the upper assembly with something else from the company. The handguard is clearly different but the barrel is still PSA PA-10. I can't find any serial numbers anywhere on the upper assembly. That the upper assembly was swapped was told to me by a relative that was with me when I bought the rifle, was with me each time I shot the rifle, and is good friends with the old man dying to the fucking plague. I don't want anything to do with the manufacturer or FFL store at this point, but am fine with having a gunsmith look at it.
So how do I troubleshoot the rifle?
Hi gun people. I'm moving to a house out in the country and want to get a gun for sport shooting. Just general improvement, no hunting.
Any recommendations? Seems like the entry level babby shit would be some sort of 22, but I was looking at bolt action .308 stuff by ruger and savage, and they seem cool.
I really don't know shit about guns, so I might be totally off base with what I should look for.
There are many things to look at when choosing a rifle. There are the cartridge, the barrel, the action, the trigger, the furniture, and the capacity for accessories. I won't detail very much.
[b]Cartridges[/b] are hell to consider because you might not have the opportunity to try and compare before making your choice. You mention .308, which you should learn to call 7.62x51. I do not recommend it. It is almost unbearable in semi-auto (AR) and you will absolutely gain a nasty flinch when firing, making precise shooting impossible (sustained semi-auto isn't as badly affected). This can be curtailed by buying and getting used to a slightly weaker cartridge like 5.56x45, but at that point why even buy 7.62x51 in the first place? Unlike 7.62x51 or 5.56x45, 7.62x39 gets dicked by wind at and past 300 meters. Other options to consider are .450 Bushmaster, .50 Beowulf, .458 SOCOM, 6.5 Grendel, and 6.5 Creedmore. The calibre of the first three are in inches. Keep in mind that you shouldn't expect more than twenty-round magazines for 7.62x51 and the 6.5s, or more than ten-round magazines for the others. All of this is within the AR platform and I have seen bolt-action rifles in everything but 7.62x39. AKs are available in 5.56x45 (NPAP-85).
[b]Barrels[/b] come in many different shapes and sizes. A longer barrel will give you greater accuracy and bullet-speed at the muzzle, or muzzle-velocity, while shorter barrels are less heavy. A thicker barrel's mass will better allocate the heat given off by the friction of the bullet when the cartridge is fired but can are heavier, whereas shorter barrels can not as easily allocate that heat and so may get too hot, losing their accuracy. Some barrels can come chrome-lined or nitride-lined on the inside, preventing a loss of accuracy, corrosion, or else, while having other benefits or drawbacks that I've no fucken clue about.
[b]The action[/b] can determine the rifle's recoil, reliability, accuracy, and more. Roller-delayed blowback rifles (Cetme, PTR, MP5, Famas) have reputable reliability and less felt recoil, but none have floated barrels. A floated barrel has better accuracy than a non-floated barrel. Gas-operated rifles (AK, AR) have small tubes connected to the barrel partway through, and so never have floated barrels. But every rifle is different, with different lengths of its barrel, and different placement of that barrel's connection with the gas system, making some rifles' barrels closer or farther from floated and more or less accurate than others. Bolt-acion, break-action (Thompson/Center's Contender), and other rifles are easily free-floated and thus more accurate than others. Many non-bolt-action rifles have alot of free-space for dust, mud, dirt, debris, and so on, or space for errors in the design or manufacture of the rifle, making them less accurate (but probably more reliable depending where you take it).
[b]The trigger[/b] is your most important interface with the rifle. If you want a rifle and want to eventually grind off more inaccuracy, you must only buy a rifle with a tweakable and replacable trigger. There are two types of triggers, the single-stage and two-stage triggers. The single-stage trigger reminds one of the keys set on a mechanical keyboard. Pressure is applied without any reaction by the trigger or key until it suddenly gives in, with all of the pressure you applied slamming it. Two-stage triggers are much different. Pressure is applied to a point where the trigger gives in, though with great resistance, until the second stage that requires greater pressure is met. If you use a two-stage trigger, you will easily learn to flinch. Using a variety of calibers, especially weaker ones, can help to confuse and unlearn the flinching.
[b]The furniture[/b] are the things in your livingroom that you sit on and the things on your rifle that sit on you, on your forward, supporting hand, and in your shoulder. Don't touch the rifle to your bones. Do pull the rifle into you. The buttstock is that backward end which can look triagular. The handguard is that forward piece that separates your hand from the hot and unwieldy-when-fired barrel. These are the same and only called the stock on a famas, aug, mosin, etc..
[b]The capacity for accessories[/b] is driven by mounts at the forestock or at the side of the reciever, picatinny rails, cobra mounts, etc.. From these can be mounted a wide variety of scopes, lasers, flashlights, sights, and mounts for scopes. Other accessories to keep in mind might be muzzle devices, bayonets, ladle-holders, slings, and so on.
If you plan on buying a cheap, sub-$500 bolt-action rifle, I recommend that you buy an SKS or save up to buy an actually good bolt-action rifle. But this really hits because cheap scopes are garbage. It is said that you should spend just as much on your scope as you should spend on your rifle. If you now plan on buying an SKS, you might consider saving up to buy an Armalite from a reputable manufacturer (you will need to read up like hell), or an imported AK (Cugir, Zavasta, WBP), or any other decent semi-auto rifle (PTR 91, M1A, Mini-14, SU-16). Anything good, even a decent bolt-action rifle and scope combo, costs around $900 or more except for the SKS. If you buy an SKS, remember to fully disassemble it to clean out the firing pin, even if it's already been cleaned. If there is cosmoline around the firing pin, the firing pin will be stuck in place and it will not fire or it will fire all loaded ammo without stopping.
>>6366>barrels closer or farther from floated and more or less accurate than others.
Of course, no barrels float, they all have to be attached to the rest of the rifle somewhere. But the less touch the better. This is what is meant. :)
And don't buy a bolt-action rifle if you're going with a sixteen-inch barrel. It should be twenty or more.
>>6007>Aren't those iterations from Abakan trails?
Yeah think they are, just found them nestled away in a wall of text when I was looking around for first gen stuff, shoved them all in a picture and saved it without looking lol>Not to be pedantic, but AS(M) doesn't really qualify as an AK platform by any stretch and I doubt many of the TKB and AEK prototypes would either.
They aren't(?), when I saved it I meant it as in "post-WW2 prototypes" not realizing the page I was on spanned decades. Don't really know much about them though.>>6366
Good effort post. FAMAS is lever-delayed not roller btw and SKS is semi-auto rather than bolt-action but I think that's just a typo on your part
What anime are you always posting those mpv-shots from?
He should sportify his SKS to turn it into an assault rifle :^)
Thing with the US is you may as well get an SKS and convert it to taking magazines. Most of the alleged assault rifles at this point are semi-automatic anyway so there's no real difference between a magazine fed semi-automatic rifle and what they call assault rifles.>>6362
Here's how you can swap an SKS out from stripper clips to magazines in just a couple of minutes for very little cash:https://youtu.be/C-XD7G4kyYU?t=86
This guy swears on the tapco ones.
If you ever want to add more stuff to it like sights or whatever you could get something like this for it:https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKS-Railed-Stock-System/324223530957
Don't think they make them anymore but they're on ebay fairly regularlyOr you can go galaxy ghetto brain and just strap a 3D printed laser sight to ithttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3509179
Thanks! I'm a really confused by your explanation on cartridges though. It looks like an SKS is 7.62x39 but before you said that 39 gets dicked by wind? So I should be looking for 7.62x51 stuff but that stuff is terrible for recoil so I should look for 5.56x45?
Or should I go for none of the above and look at the 'other options'?
As for the price, I don't really have a limit. I can afford to spend more than $500, but I figured for a first gun I wouldn't + shouldn't go balls to the wall and buy like a $2400 gun or something. But $900 for a rifle and scope seems reasonable to me.
Which readily available ammunition is deadliest?
Also how do you recoup the costs of a gun if you have to move. Can you take it with you somehow to another country?
>>6440>If you ever want to add more stuff to it like sights or whatever you could get something like this for it
This links died for some reason but if you want to save even more money you can pick up a part for the standard SKS that adds rails for what's currently on sale at $10, it's also actually in stock and won't require lurking ebayhttps://www.acmemachine.com/accessories/sks-one-piece-rifle-picatinny-scope-mount/
Considering most of the furniture alternatives either don't have rails or are $100+ picking this up while it's on sale would be a good move, even if you get it before your gun. If you ever want to swap out the wood furniture later you don't have to worry about getting ones with top rails then.
Someone in the reviews also posted their mags + rail modified SKS, so you can get a good idea of what it would look like.>>6473
7.62x39 and 5.56x45 are fine tbh, 7.62x51 is overkill. 5.56 has more abundant ammo but the guns are more expensive even at their cheapest, and even then getting the cheapest 5.56 doesn't mean it would be as good as an SKS. The SKS makes more sense for a cheaper starter gun because then you have a decent gun, the time until you can afford an objectively better 5.56 isn't so pressing.
tell me about them what's some suggestions on the good ones
>>6479>5.56 has more abundant ammo
This is not true anymore. The panic-buying boomers have soaked up everything.>>6473
"Dicked by wind" was an exaggeration, but it is much worse than other rounds. Just practice shooting on windy days and you'll learn to overcome it. Yes, 7.62x51's recoil is a big bit of a bitch, but it's necessary if you want to go farther and harder than the intermediate rounds. 5.56 might not be legal for hunting in your area and it does not carry the punch of 7.62x39. It was made to penetrate a thin steel helmet at 300 metres. It barely did this.>But $900 for a rifle and scope seems reasonable to me.
If you have the eye for it (probably not as high a bar as you might think), you should try sticking to iron-sights. It's more fun, it makes you feel cool and classy, and there is probably a higher skill ceiling. You'll never find a 400 metre range available to you or need to take it past like 150 metres anway, so why pay extra when you can just aspire to get good? I don't recommend the larger magazines for SKS. Of course, if you buy one then you need to buy multiple to actually justify it unless you plan on reloading the magazine e v e r y t i m e. They have this front weiner that makes them impossible to fit into a chest rig upside down and if you have them open-side-up the weiners look silly.>>6492
.45 weighs more than 5.56. No pistol cartridge can beat 5.56 in anything but the availability of ammo. If you have a suppressor and .300 BLK isn't available for you, then a PCC makes perfect sense. If you reload .45 or already have hella .45, then it makes sense to buy something chambered in .45. Even if you actually meant to ask about a "subgun" like the MPX instead of carbines, their slightly smaller sizes don't provide much of an advantage the absolute reach of a slightly larger AR in .300 BLK (or folding-stock AK with subsonic 7.62x39 in the Soviet Union). Want a gun to fit in your backpack? 10.5" ARs already can by shortening the telescopic stock, popping the retainer pins, and decoupling the rifle. Brownells recently released their variant of the AR-18 as an upper assembly for AR-15s, so you can even do away with the buffer tube and have a folding stock to save even more space. Of course, shorter AKs with folding stocks already exist. And the actually good PCCs are so terribly expensive.
I get that the mags aren't the greatest since they're essentially just a cleverly engineered replacement for the clips and the part that feeds them, but come on man who gives a fuck about looks besides both of us
. Your first gun has to get you to survival. That's why I'm suggesting the jankiest shit to get a gun that will hold up in modern combat out the door. Everyone's out of stock on everything and my man needs a dangerous firearm.
Why has nobody made a new system for replacing the clip system, rather than just swapping it out with an awkward mag that just fits in place? Surely it'd make more sense just shaving a bit off the mags or furniture, make something for them to be put in in the shape of the old parts, add a mag release and you've got a full on civilian rifle.
Am I missing something here?
Serious question: is there enough interest for a dedicated /k/ board? I'd love to see one, as I hate going to reddit for the sra subreddit, or going to one of the lolberg/fashie /k/ boards.
Use whatever is most available in your probable AO. If you're in the US, that means just go 5.56 & AR-15. You can have larpy ex-soviet stuff for fun too, but take care of your business end comrade.
No. Look at how few posts there are and how old this thread is. Last time we had a dedicated /leftyk/ board it was so underused that it had 10 threads up, of which 2 were spam and 1 had 0 posts and the rest had 10 posts in each.
Skimreading dumbasses need to fuck off and stop strawmanning.
Learn toolmaking first (and just general machine shop use) and that stuff is obvious. That's why it's not included - anyone that wants to figure that out should be a tradesman (even if a covert one) anyway.
>9770>The internet makes this phenomenally easy, to where even /pol/ and /b/tards can track down the most obscure locations in hours
Just some examples of this
Finding Shia's flag (with no land features): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vw9zyxm860Q
Finding the 9gag rock: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzFykQv6Q08
Identifying a masked Antifa member: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muoR8Td44UE
4chan finds ISIS training camp and calls in airstrike from Russia: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG1FWWX7ZPk
This shit is so fucking easy that its not even funny.
I read it and still hold it's a flawed opinion. And yes, that's the fundamental argument being made. Modern military and state surveillance make it implausible, plus high HDI so less revolutionary potential. Right? I don't think that's misrepresenting it at all. Oh and "disarm the workers afterwards but they get training so it's Ok". I'm not discussing the topic in depth though as it's glow bait. Just genuinely surprised anyone still thinks that way.
Send it back. They probably fucked up the gas port and you're not getting enough gas, resulting in short-stroking. They have a warranty for a reason.
Hi-point carbine in 10mm, or whatever. Those things are a fun gun, but can be used for home defense. Really, almost all of them are okay.
I'd like to see a /k/ board. The fact is that this is a topic of which many are ignorant of. It's not a hard topic, but I would like to see more boards, even if they are a bit slower.
If people are done having autistic arguments about gun control, I have a little question/another topic that is at least firearms related.
Does anyone here hunt/ever been hunting? Deer, small game, duck, wild turkey idk, doesn't matter.
I'm kind of wanting to try and get into it in addition to getting into guns in general. If nothing else, for knowing how to put meat on the table if civilization shits the bed.
Hunting's easy depending on your state. What are you interested in? Squirrels, you can generally just shoot from your backyard and an air rifle. Coyotes, hogs, and other pests are unregulated and you can hunt them as you will.
You want to get into guns? A gun is your interface to the cartridge, that pile of gunpowder in a case of brass plugged on both ends by the bullet and the primer. When the primer is struck it goes pop which makes the gunpowder go pop. This happens in a chamber known as [b]the[/b] chamber. This pop is enclosed in all but one direction, muzzleward. The gas pushes the bullet muzzleward and out the muzzle. If the barrel is rifled, the bullet will spin like our mother Earth.
So what's the method by which the primer is struck? A pin which makes the gunpowder combust into fire and which makes the gun "fire" is called the firing pin. It is often struck forward and into the primer by a hammer. And how is the hammer moved? A conpreviously blocked spring extends and pushes the hammer, or by the magic of putting the spring on the other side of the hammer, that conpreviously blocked spring compresses and pulls the hammer.
So what's the method by which the spring is set and the method by which the spring is allowed to move the hammer into the firing pin? The spring is set by having pulled that external hammer back. This is done in old revolvers by pulling the hammer back directly. This is done indirectly in the AR-10/15, the MP9, and the G3 by pulling the charging handle back. This slides the bolt that carries the firing pin back and across the hammer, setting the spring into place so that it may be released for pushing or pulling the hammer into striking the firing pin.
But the charging handle is not the only thing that slides the bolt that carries the firing pin back and across the hammer, setting the spring into place so that it may be released for pushing or pulling the hammer into striking the firing pin for those guns. In the AR-10/15, gas from the combustion of the gunpowder within the cartouche goes though the barrel and into a port, a hole, in the barrel and through a small pipe. This expanding gas moves from the pipe into the forward half of the bolt-carrier-group, or the BCG. The BCG is constructed in such a way that the expanding gas forces the forward third of the BCG into twisting. This unlocks it from the chamber and the BCG in its entirety may slide backward and over the hammer, pushing it back and setting the spring into place for another firing.
Why does the BCG need to be stuck into place at the chamber? It is for delay! If there were no delay by making the expanding gas go all the way around, if there was no delay because the backward movement of the BCG was forced by the immediate pressure from the expanding gas, then too much gas would escape to anywhere but through the barrel and the bullet would not be as quickly propelled. And that gas might expand into the magazine, rupturing it and burning my left arm that was on the handguard.
The AK does something similar. The expanding gas from the cartouche goes through the barrel and through a port, but now hits and pushes backward a long rod. This rod pushes the bolt back and over the hammer and so on. Other rifles are roller-delayed, lever-delayed, and so on.
But how is the expended cartouche extracted and how is the new cartouche loaded? For the AR-10/15 there exists a small tongue on the front of the BCG that is spring-loaded. It hooks onto the rim of the cartouche when that cartouche is loaded. When the BCG moves backward, it is still holding on but a small prick on the opposite side at the front of the BCG pushes. This contorts the expended cartouche and flings it sideways. This is timed so that the expended cartouche flies out at the ejection port. A new cartouch is loaded when a spring in the buffer tube in the stock pushes the BCG forward. The BCG barely catches the top of the backward end of the new cartouche and pushes it forward into a ramp on an innard part of the magazine that feeds new cartouches to the rifle. This is known as the feed ramp. The cartouche is manipulated by the chamber into the correct position for firing.
So what rifles are there? What are their differences?>>6366
Depending on what you're interested in hunting, and depending on whether you want more than just hunting, the real cheap shit might not be too bad. But SKS still is the best option if you can't part with at least $700. Make sure that there is ammo available for what you buy. 7.62x51 has all dried up. But I have seen so many boxes of 7.62x39. Don't have an FFL transfer an SKS for you. Buy only an SKS that you can look over for rust and pitting and so on.
What brands are there for different rifles?
For AKs you should only buy foreign rifles, imports. There are WBP, Cugir, Zavasta Arms, Arsenal, and the option to buy a parts kit for the obscure ones that you'll never have a chance at finding and then sending it to someone to have it built. For ARs you will have to do your own research. There are Aero Precision, H&K, Daniel Defense, Palmetto, Bear Creek, Anderson Manufacturing, and a shitload of others. Don't buy an AR-10, especially not one with a PSA upper. PTR Industries reproduces H&K's G3 and MP5. Savage Arms and another one like Bergera or Gerbera have good reputations for their bolt-action rifles. There are the generic brands that make generic rifles like Ruger, Remington, Winchester..
Just make sure you wear muffs over earplugs. Hearing aid costs more than hearing protection.
Thanks based mpv-shot anon for posting this informative effort post and ignoring the shitposts. Bravo!
Yes, as it was a crew gun. It's something like 2/3 the size of an AK74. Trying to stick an AK74 out of a BTR hatch would probably be quite a pain and would take away precious time if you're in a situation you have to do that. If you were in the habit of keeping your gun on the roof though you should probably try and get something that doesn't kick so much, but I'm not sure how "fluidly" guns move around the Soviet/Russian army if you get what I mean. It's also pretty much your only option if you're a helicopter pilot.
Paratroopers also still use it and I don't think I've seen anything hinting at its replacement so it must have a fairly high approval rating considering the amount of new designs Russia produces.
Did some digging because I don't know much about armour:>The bullet-proof vest 6B1, which became the main bulletproof vest among soldiers in Afghanistan, was not suitable for the conditions of fighting in this country. Moving in the mountains and the weight of body armor (about 5.2 kg) had a very negative impact on the fighting efficiency of soldiers, and therefore the command decided to abandon the bulletproof vests of this model. To replace the 6B1 at the NII Stali in 1981, a new body armor with a 6B2 index was developed.>The bullet-proof vest 6B2 consisted of two interconnected covers for armored elements. Features of the connecting structures made it possible to adjust the waistcoat to the dimensions of the fighter.The waistcoat perfectly coped with protection from splinters, as well as pistol bullets, but made its way from the Kalashnikov assault rifle. The weight of the bulletproof vest was less than that of the predecessor (from 4.2 to 4.8) and differed depending on the size.>In 1983, the Research Institute of Steel developed a flak jacket, which was given the index 6B3.He possessed 3rd class of protection, but at the same time his weight was 12.2 kg. Later, a modification was developed in which some structural elements were replaced, and the weight of the bulletproof vest approached 8 kg.The modification carried the index 6BZT.With a large mass, this bulletproof vest can be called innovative for the Soviet army, as, among other things, it had integrated pouches, that is, it was a bulletproof vest with an unloading system.Pouches and mounts on the bulletproof vest provided the opportunity to carry 4 stores for AK / RPK, 4 hand grenades, a gas mask, a radio station.>The 6B3 vest was developed due to the inadequate protection of the 6B2 against automatic weapons. Developed alongside the 6B4, it was made to protect the user from AKM rounds. It has inner slabs/plates made from Steel or Titanium. The thickness and hardness of the titanium plates varied between vest types. Behind the plates are soft "SVMT" inserts to reduce the chance of bullet penetration occurring. These vests came in sizes 1 and 2, 1 being good for 48-54 and 2 for 54-60. Size one fits 12 plats per side and size 2 fits 14 plates per side. The vest features 4 pouches for 5.45 AK magazines, 4 grenade pouches, and 2 general purpose pouches.
SVMT = SVM = Aramid fibre = Kevlar>If the constructors were developing new bulletproof vests with great enthusiasm, then this can not be said about the helmets. In Afghanistan as a helmet used helmet NL various modifications which differ podtuleynym device. The protective properties and design of the dome repeated the model SH-39, then the SH-40, then the SH-54, the secondary SH-60 and the secondary SH-68 (which had the modifications of the SH-68M and the secondary SH-68N) was developed.The last model (SH-68) lasted the most in armament in the army and was used even in the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation.
So pretty much trash at the start until it approached modern standards, even an old US flak jacket can stop pistol rounds and shrapnel and the 6B1 was from a similar time so it needed an update. All the references are to steel and titanium inserts so I assume they didn't have any ceramics, which would have eased up on the weight problem. 6B3 would be heavy but a good purchase even today.
Thing is with helmets is a lot of people say that the sort of rounds hitting your head in Tarkov would turn your brain to liquid, but I've seen pictures of happy soldiers posing with their shredded helmets after getting hit in the head with a rifle round, emphasis on the singular, and obviously dead soldiers aren't taking photos with their helmet but they do work and will outperform when lower quality ammo is being used. Slight tangent but helmets also have their use outside of gunfights, Iraqi police recently took to the practice of lodging tear gas canisters in people's skulls, in one case it took the whole top of some kid's skull off evacuating/liquefying the brain in the process. Buy a helmet.
>Also what are the main differences between 7.62x39 and 5.45x39 in terms of penetration value
7.62 has better penetration but drops off quicker along with worse accuracy, some of the reasons it stopped being the favourite>and what kind of damage they do to flesh when they pass through the body?
Another one of the reasons the 7.62 fell out of favour was because it kept coming straight out the other side of targets, a bullet will kill you faster if it takes a non-linear angle inside your body and stays in there. Obviously having two big holes in your body will also kill you, but it doesn't do it as quickly.
6B13 and 6B23 are pretty good, with neck protectors and more gut protection to protect against artillery attacks.
That shit sucks, and is more expensive than modern equipment if you live in the states or western Europe. If you live in those areas, that equipment is so plentiful and easy to fix, that it shouldn't be a problem to attain and maintain. As for plates, modern ceramics are cheap, plentiful and can hold up to all sorts of shit. I'm sure they can be made to fit. Steel plates have their own issues and aren't that much cheaper. Now remember, you don't have to go for gucci shit, but at least get shit with an NSN if you're going to buy used. Plenty of USGI gear out there and you can have a full kit for little to no money. Just make sure you train in it, because modern gear is far more comfortable. You're going to want to change it a lot. Train in groups, and train to standards. Remember training is more important than gear.
Depends on what you're looking for
Most of the replies seem to be concerning body armor (including helmets) specifically, I'm assuming there's not really much of a difference between using a modern ammo rig in comparison to an older one then besides carrying capacity.>>7653>>7654
This proved to be quite useful for my intended purposes, thanks.>>7676
Oh don't worry, I'm not in the business of actually purchasing this kind of body armor myself (not sure if I can even get that shit legally over here in Finland without having a good reason for it, authorities tend to be kinda suspicious about that sort of thing), I'm not that much of a sovietboo. I'm asking about all of this purely for writing purposes. Hope someone else finds this advice relevant though.>>7678
Seems pretty interesting at a glance, I'll give the full article a read at some point.
>>7686> I'm assuming there's not really much of a difference between using a modern ammo rig in comparison to an older one then besides carrying capacity.
Comfort and weight are big factors. A lot of old gear gets really heavy when wet, and is uncomfortable to wear and use. Helmets vary, most modern helmets can be very comfortable. Steel pots still work, though, but no good way to mount NODs.
I just got the bayonet for my m48!
side question, are 8mm's useful for the revolution?
The secret is to put night vision on weapon taps head.
NODs on weapons is a big meme. Wearing them on your helmet increaeses your situational awareness, and provided you use an IR laser like a PEQ-15, you can also aim your rifle very well. You can even fire from the hip (which makes you feel like terminator). If you're in the market for that, Zenitco sells very powerful lasers and they are far cheaper than the civilian lasers in the US, which have restricted power settings. As for NODs, you can find a good pair for $2300. Night vision is expensive now because there is no competition and tubes basically have to be assembled by hand. China and Russia are making it cheaper. That shit is going to get no more expensive than a rifle eventually so you kiddos can get in on it.
D3CRXH from Haley Strategic. Comes in all the colors you like, and can be attached as a placard to a carrier.
Dedicated 7.62 chest rigs aren't as common as 5.56, especially in those patterns, but you can always get a universal rig and get your own pouches. Honestly, I have separate setups for different weapons. I still have my gunner's kit and would wear that over my slick carrier if needed, but my main plate carrier is just set up for 5.56.
What are the options for universal rigs? I don't know much of the scene, what are the options?
Universal rigs are everywhere, just make sure you get a trustworthy brand. They have PALS webbing (also called MOLLE, but that's wrong), and you can weave pouches into them, and do as you see fit.
But honestly, what is your use case? Are you going to be moving on foot with a ruck? Or are you going to be in a vehicle? Are you employed in a DMR role? Are you trying to be covert, or are you going for an overt presence in an area?
Give me a list of what you're trying to carry on your person, if you don't mind. I'll be up for a couple of more hours.
Are you military? Why are you on bunker-chan if you're military?
I'm organised in a rural, heavily wooded and brushy area, no need for going covert. Yes, I have a bag, and I need to be loosely vehicle-compatible. The area is reallllyyy brushy, and I would like to not snag on everything. I already have a belt and plans for the belt that include a pistol holster with space on it or next to it for a magazine, a magazine pouch for rifle, a pouch for pliers. What else do you recommend? Where should I put the knife? I have a bag with the usual, magazines, foodstuffs, maps, rain gear, party material, and water. IFAK is easily accessible in the bag and this is how it is for all of my bromos. I don't want anything sticking out of me because of snag and easy movement.
So what do you recommend? Not just the chest rig, what are some tips all around?
>>8057>Are you military? Why are you on bunker-chan if you're military?
Maybe. And for the same reason you're here.
As for the rest, the best thing you can do to avoid snagging is to tie and tape down your straps. Conduct checks on you and your buddies before every exercise. The biggest thing that gets caught is the rhino mount on your helmet if you have one. A good tip is to attach that as a whole item and keep it in a pouch on your person, then attach it only when you're actually going to be using it. Common sense, but even military guys do that stupid shit.
Second, belts are good, but can fuck with your ruck. Make sure you try it out and can wear it comfortably without it digging into your back. Keep your back slick, and if you do have a hydration pack like a camelbak, make sure it isn't permanently attached. At the very least, you should be able to place it in your ruck and then in whatever pouch you've left on your back, so as not to create a gap between you and the ruck. Not the biggest deal if in a vehicle, but make sure you can get in and out without too much hassle.
Also, keep the side of your pistol mostly clear, or limit it to a flat admin pouch, as well as ensuring you have a low to mid-ride holster. This will ensure you can draw your weapon if need-be. Some kind of retention solution is prudent as well. You can go with a lanyard, or simply having a bungee over the pistol to keep it in the holster. Do not, for the love of god, buy a serpa holster. Those are shit. Esstac makes some good stuff, and that's where I got my belt. Mine mostly stays on, so think things through.
The IFAK should be kept on your baseline kit, that is, whatever you aren't going to be taking off. I keep mine on my belt, but putting it on your rig or carrier should be just as good. Keep another in a pack. The IFAK on yoru kit is for others to use on you or for you to use on yourself if need-be. Never use your IFAK on someone else. Use an extra one in your pack instead or whatever is in their kit. You should have an SOP for this so that everyone knows where the IFAK is located on everyone else. You can either mark it or designate a place. A common one is in the rear left side, almost to the back, but enough so that it won't interfere with your ruck.
The multitool can be kept almost anywhere. I keep mine in a pocket in my pants, but have carried it in my admin pouch either to the side or up front. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, just something you can use to cut 550 cord, tape, etc.
You should have a head lamp, red and white light, and make sure your maps are red-light readable.
The knife is best kept on your kit. I like to carry it near my left shoulder, but it shouldn't interfere with shouldering the weapon on that side either, nor should the straps of your ruck rest on it. This is a recipe for pain.
As for the holster, if I'm reading it right, you have both the weapon and magazines next to each other. I would highly recommend you keep them opposite of each other so that you can reload faster, and to keep a speed pouch for an extra rifle magazine. However, seeing as you seem to have an SR-25, this might not be such an issue. It will be if you're a rifleman. Something to think about.
Things to think about:
Knee pads. Bounding movements are a bitch, and will fuck your knees up if you aren't careful. I personally never used mine and my knees are fucked.
Helmets. If you don't have one, you should. One of the leading causes of casualties are TBIs(Traumatic Brain Injury). It doesn't have to be a ballistic helmet, but it should protect your head in case you take a fall or something falls on you. I highly recommend the standard ACH. It's cheap, works, and while it may not be as light as the new high-cut helmets, it does provide more protection and can do all the same things. Yes, you can even wear peltors under it. It's built with that purpose in mind. Just get yourself another strap for it, because the issued one sucks. Don't mount too much stuff on it, just the necessary stuff. Put on a helmet cover on it too. It will dampen noise when you brush against things, and you can use it to weave vegetation into it.
Soft covers. A boonie is always good, and if you aren't moving or getting shot at, is more comfortable and easier to work in. If you have two, you can turn one into a veil.
All in all, seems you're doing well. Make sure you have at least enough room for six magazines on your person. The standard is eight, but, I find that's overkill. Six is the sweet spot, and you can always carry more in your ruck.
Keep dry clothing, to include socks, and maybe an extra pair of boots for long outings in your ruck. Keep this all in a wet weather bag. They're green and are about $8 on any milsurp store. I have one for every bag. Keep a sleep system. The snugpak stuff is good, and is much lighter and packs smaller than the USGI sleep systems. Make sure you have a bivy cover as well.
And for one last tip, I would say dummy cord your optics, and other important items to your rifle or your person. You do not want to be ten miles into a movement just to find that you no longer have an optic or a pair of NODs. Anything you can't afford to lose should be tied down. Pouches should be built with this in mind. Some guys carry the pouches with bungee cords. I like them too, but I have closed top pouches as well. Don't worry about the velcro too much. If you're having to reload, that velcro isn't going to be louder than whatever is going on around you.
Also, carry a weapons cleaning kit with plenty of CLP. This should be kept in your ruck.
Carry a rite-in-the-rain notebook with an appropriate pen or pencil. Keep these on your person or admin pouch. They are useful whenever you are making sector sketches or to write down things before sending them up. Keep laminated smart cards for anything you might need like 9-line medevac, etc.
Keep extra water in your ruck apart from your camelbak. If you carry canteens, use them to fill up the bag instead of drinking form them. This way they won't slosh and make noise.
Keep comfort items like baby wipes, ibuprofein, a hygiene kit, and a boo-boo kit in your ruck or assault pack. Moleskin is also good if you're prone to blisters. Never let those go untreated. If you develop a hot spot, wait for a halt, then fix it. You do not want to be slowing the others down because you've fucked your feet up. Take care of your feet. Take care of all your body parts for that matter. Have a good pair of eyepro and gloves, earpro too. Wear them and camouflage any exposed skin using a compact you can buy at any online store. Learn how to apply face paint. It isn't just making random patterns. Regular rule of thumb is that lighter colors go in shadowed features and darker colors go in prominent features. You can stripe or blotch, or combination of the two. Try it and see what works.
Signaling items are also good a VS-17 panel and chemlights are a must have for TLs and up. Smoke, and other items are also useful. Make a PACE plan for all these things. You should have backups to your backups and pre-determined SOPs. Pre-plan and rehearse. Don't go into things blind.
A lot of surplus gear is good enough for the most part. I did just fine with it and I've been doing the job for more than a decade. However, there are better things out there, just avoid obvious shit like condor and so on. If something has an NSN number, chances are that it's good. I myself have been issued some better gear and have a lot of my own gear as well. Do this for long enough and you'll learn what does and doesn't work.
If you train long enough and hard enough you're going to do away with the useless stuff and move on to good stuff. Obviously this is just a small group of tips on an internet post, but you should be training hard. Every weekend if necessary, but at least once a month. Make sure you or your leadership have a concrete training schedule and stick to it. There are tasks that you must train for every time, and some that only go quarterly, but every training even should get you more familiarized with a concept or introduce you to a new one. Do not get complacent. This is the most important part. PT on your own as well, and make sure you're pushing yourself. Obviously without the money and training the government provides, you can only do so much, but that is not an excuse. Make sure you read appropriate field manuals, and apply theses concepts wargame it, and conduct AARs in order to improve your training. The fascists are doing this much already. You need to that and more.
Great effort post>Learn how to apply face paint. It isn't just making random patterns. Regular rule of thumb is that lighter colors go in shadowed features and darker colors go in prominent features. You can stripe or blotch, or combination of the two.
Can you give a couple of picture examples for the do and don't of this?
Yeah. This pic is a good example using striping. Could use some more colors and less symmetry. Symmetry attracts eyes, and human brains are built to look for it. Also, he needed to cover more skin. Still, the fundamentals are good. Cheekbones, lips, and other prominent areas of the face are darkened, and the under-brow, lower lip, and under the nose are highlighted.
The second picture is just black face. Don't do blackface/greenface. Colors should not just blob together at a distance, but create a gradient. Harder when painting your face, but it can be done.
Remember the fundamentals of camouflage:
Keep these in mind, and you'll be better concealed, not just your person, but your gear and hide sites as well. Utilize OPFOR to test how good you are both at hiding yourself/movments and how good you are at detecting them as a unit.
best pistol and assault rifle in nato countries
M4 variants and any 9mm pistol that you like. As a rule of thumb, you want to use what the cops and military use.
Should I have someone with experience tighten my prebuilt AR's barrel or can I do it myself?
What do you mean, "thighten"? Is your shit loose? Send it back for warranty work. If you're talking about accurizing, don't worry about it. For a standard M4, 3 MOA is more than good enough. If you are out of warranty, I'd take it to a reputable gunsmmith. Either way, don't fire this weapon if the barrel is actually loose.
If I zero 7.62x51 with a 20 in barrel at two-hundred metres, should the bullet still be rising at three-hundred?
I have another armalite with a Huldra MkIV upper in 5.45x39 and a 16 in barrle. Where should I zero it? Is that a good enough company? Is hitting a bit wider than the black torso of the standard sillhoutte with irons bad? What red dot might you recommend for less than 200 dollars to be used up to 150m?>>8723
I read on a thread about PSA's rifles that their barrels were the loosest this user had ever seen. Maybe they meant the barrel nut? I'm a new owner. But no, mine's not loose in any way that I could notice. The rifle had less than a half-inch horizontal spread but one outlier at less than two inches away horizontally at three hundred meters. It was probably with a foot of vertical spread. This was five shots with FC's match king, 308. Prvi Partizan shoots like shit with it though.
I hope it's okay to ask so much even when I can find the answers elsewhere. I just can't find the answers each time that I search, don't want a dead thread, and don't want other people missing out on some good answers.
>>8748>If I zero 7.62x51 with a 20 in barrel at two-hundred metres, should the bullet still be rising at three-hundred?
>I have another armalite with a Huldra MkIV upper in 5.45x39 and a 16 in barrle. Where should I zero it?
This would be beyond my area of expertise. Generally a 200m zero is good for most intermediate calibers, but I do not know the common practice.
>Is hitting a bit wider than the black torso of the standard sillhoutte with irons bad?
Yes, generally it should fall within a 12" circle at 300m. Luckily, this just means you need more trigger time. Unless your weapon is defective or out-of-spec, this is something you should be able to hit even with irons.
>What red dot might you recommend for less than 200 dollars to be used up to 150m?
Sig makes some good stuff. Just bought a Romeo 7. It resembles the comp M4 from aimpoint, which are my preferred optics when it comes to red dots. I'll let you know in a few months, since I do beat up my stuff a bit.
>I read on a thread about PSA's rifles that their barrels were the loosest this user had ever seen. Maybe they meant the barrel nut? I'm a new owner.
That's odd. PSA generallly isn't too bad, but again, I've never owned one myself. It doesn't hurt to have a torque wrench and tools to double check the torque specs, but if it isn't giving you any trouble, then this might not be a priority. Other than my own builds, I've never had to tighten a barrel nut on a pre-built rifle.
>The rifle had less than a half-inch horizontal spread but one outlier at less than two inches away horizontally at three hundred meters.
This looks pretty good.
>It was probably with a foot of vertical spread.
This looks like you might need to work on your fundamentals. The rifle sounds fine so far. Focus on gaining a steady position and breathing. Relax and shoot at your normal breathing pause. It's easier if you take the shot on the exhale pause. Do not hold your breath, this makes it worse.
>I hope it's okay to ask so much even when I can find the answers elsewhere. I just can't find the answers each time that I search, don't want a dead thread, and don't want other people missing out on some good answers
We're all here to help each other, comrade. Relax.
I would recommend you look into magnified optics for your rifle, though, and save up a bit. A 7.62NATO rifle can provide excellent support at intermediate ranges up to 600m. Get good at what you do and you'll be hitting there in no time. I would also advice you take stress shoots to learn your breathing better once you get proficient. Go take a run, or do 50 push-up, burpees, etc. This is good for testing your fundamentals as well as building on them. If you can shoot like this, you can shoot in almost any circumstance.
Is anyone else having a hard time finding ammo in their area? Walmart,local gun stores, even some pawn shops have been low on .22 and 5.56 to the point I can maybe get a box once a month twice if I’m lucky
It's sold out everywhere. People are preparing for a Biden election, and thus gun control. I have some stockpiled, but don't worry, you can still train. Remember to do that, even if you can't get proper trigger time. Just work on dry-fire drills as well as your battle drills and PT.
Where should I train? Everywhere is closed and I live in the city, I still do PT tho
Classroom training is where you want to be at, as well as simple ready-up drills, which can be done at home, dry-fire drills, which also can be done at home, to include dime/washer drills, and so on. There is never an excuse not to get more familiar with what you're doing. Add in more job-specific things like Kim's game for would-be snipers and recon elements, and you have enough to keep you going through this pandemic. Keep up the good work, and remember to be discrete about everything. Even though everything we're doing is perfectly legal, there are those people that would do you harm based on association alone. Train and operate in silence.
Anyone else disappointed with Ivan's What About Ammo? Was waiting for it for a while and when it came out it was basically just an updated Luty ammo manual.https://twitter.com/Ivan_Is_Back/status/1272557616242348034
Think of how good it would be for drivebys
terrorist default weapon
honestly didnt think it was going to be anything special
I got myself excited for some DIY centerfire ammo
enough to arm the homies
Actually kind of cool. AKs in 5.56 get thumbs way up from me. Don't know if real or airshit, though.
Revolvers are a bit more delicate and sensitive to rust than semi-autos. It's a bunch of clockwork shit compared to very physically simple semi-auto. That being said, you should maintain every weapon you own. It takes no more than a bit of CLP, rags, and a bore brush. There is no excuse.
And to answer your question, yes, it has suffered. It's about $.60/round at the cheapest.
Well perhaps a better phrase would be "neglect". I would without a doubt clean it every time I fired it.
Firearms are durable mechanical goods, if you keep it in a clean, reasonably dry environment without dirt and salt or excessive firing residue in it there is little to go wrong, just keep the springs eased (hammer/striker down) for long term unattended storage and there's very little that will actually go wrong, similarly ammunition kept in cool dry dark places will last much, much longer than the manufacturer says it will on the box
Just get a second hand glock or something, clean it after using it and store it properly when you aren't
They're Khyber copies, built in the mountains of NW Pakistan where there's a large cottage industry of arms manufacturing. Vice did a documentary on them years ago that's pretty interesting where they make a load of guns by hand, not sure if they've managed to get lathes yet.
They don't have the AK gas piston and have an AR cocking handle so the AK parts are likely purely cosmetic, maybe due to stylistic choice by the craftsman or they're just easier to build. They could absolutely copy a full AR, but when you're producing guns by hand you probably want to find ways to cut down manufacturing time.>>9515
Revolvers also don't drop the brass when fired ;)
>>9534> They're Khyber copies, built in the mountains of NW Pakistan where there's a large cottage industry of arms manufacturing. Vice did a documentary on them years ago that's pretty interesting where they make a load of guns by hand, not sure if they've managed to get lathes yet.
Dera Adam Khel? If I go to KPK soon i'll check that place out.
I went and found where I got the image and you're exactly right! Had it on my HD so long I had forgotten.https://twitter.com/CalibreObscura/status/1178371795503763458
Here's some gun guys who live there, maybe if you ask nicely they can show you aroundhttps://twitter.com/KhyberArmouryhttps://twitter.com/Ansar_Akbar
Be sure to bring us some pics back :)
Damn dude, I knew Pakistan had a gun culture but I thought it was mostly limited to dated munitions, so this is where you guys get all your fancy stuff from. Here in India the gun laws are pretty cucked, probably for the better though, since you wouldn't want the angry right wing mobs run amok with all sorts of firearms. The rich groups would probably overwhelm the military itself (not like they don't already), since they use pathetically outdated weapons and are under-equipped at that as well.
It used to be shoddy old rifles and stuff but since the Vice documentary on them they've definitely improved. It's of course inferior to military grade stuff, and a lot of them are prone to jamming because a large portion of the parts are made with hand tools copied from military grade weapons they get their hands on, but there are some incredibly talented gunsmiths in there who can make them just as good as the originals. You can see them pulling off mag dumps on their twitters without much issue.
Khyber guys stand out because they do it in the open and with rudimentary tools and were the first to really be known about, but there are quite a few underground arms companies nobody knows the location of that you see crop up from time to time. Probably based in a machinist sweatshop or after-hours off the book work at an arms factory, presumably in the former Warsaw Pact and Yugoslavia.
The poor armaments and lack thereof in the Indian mobs is probably down to a lack of political will to arm them properly, wherever there are lathes and electricity guns can be whipped up on a pretty large scale. Unless they're all just woefully incompetent and dim, which seeing the state of the Indian right is a possibility.
The mostly procure cheap Soviet era weapons as best, since they get circulated into black markets and between suppliers, due to them being mass produced and replaced old militias just scrap them off. Though after independence a lot of local shady gunsmiths did manage to construct makeshift weapons with essentially bare scrap metal, screws, pipes and gunpowder, they are still used but are slowly being replaced as they lose their efficacy and people in general finding ways to import much better military grade equipment.
We mostly buy our equipment from Russia and Israel that is used up and cheap, I would say Pakistan has a much more modernized force overall and guerrilla trained, it is just vastly outnumbered in terms of capacity and formal tactics and training.
Anyone into skeet shooting?
hey folks which products would you recommend for reloading my own rounds?
one of them cartouche-holders on a stick that you slap into something hard to toss the bullet out the cartouche in case you fucked up. get a mechanical scale, you can't know whether or how an electric scale fucks up that shit's like black magic. get some real precise bolt-action rifle to really test your rounds if you care about making your shit tight. don't worry about making your shit tight if your using intermediate calibres and don't reload if you're not worried about making your shit tight.
There's a number of folding SMGs of that same design.>>2147>Why not an uzi then?
Because the fold up into a more compact space than an uzi? An Uzi is just one type of SMG.
>>2502>What would happen if someone fired off an entire magazine of a Type 56 AK when engaged in combat in an enclosed space (interior of a cargo ship in this case) where no-one participating has hearing protection? Does everyone just go deaf from it?
Something interesting I learned recently, is the loudness is determined by the type of round and the length of the barrel. Because the barrel needs to be long enough to burn all the powder, or there will be more boom when it comes out, meaning louder and brighter flash. >How hard is it for someone with no practical experience (but plenty in theoretical) in firearms to handle the recoil of a 7.62x39 round? What about in full auto?
I wonder if anyone here has shot full auto before. You can find ranges most places in USA that you can try a full auto at. If this person had practical experience in theory they wouldn't really use full auto I think. My general understanding is it's more or less considered useless on anything other than on something belt fed or with a drum mag or something. The rate of fire on the type 56 is 10 rounds a second. So on a standard magazine, that's 3 seconds of depressing the trigger. On a drum mag that's 10. You gotta figure in war, people are often fighting from a position where they can keep a surplus of magazines to go through as they continuously dump them, and the point of full auto is more fore "fire suppression" than to directly hit stuff most of the time. Nobody wants to get up and run from their cover when they can hear 10 bullets whizzing by every second even if they aren't well aimed. There's a reason the military changed their rifles to 3 round burst from full auto. They decided soldiers were wasting too much ammo with full auto.>Is .38 special enough to stop a man in one shot?
If you hit them in the spine, brain, throat, arteries, lungs, yeah.>If not can you recommend a better revolver cartridge?
Uhh depends what you're going for .38 special is a cartridge for guns that are designed to be small like snub noses. .357 magnum, .44 magnum, 9mm?
<If it's not practical to carry a shotgun or a rifle, there isn't a big difference in the performance of the major handgun calibers (.380 ACP, .38 Special, .357 Magnum, 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP or .44 Magnum).https://www.wideopenspaces.com/best-handgun-caliber-for-self-defense-debate-resolved-for-good/>How big is the danger of getting hit by ricochet when in a tight corridor?
High, depends which direction you're talking about. Ricochets will always be going faster the smaller the angle between their initial trajectory and the surface they're ricocheting off of like all projectiles. Imagine a tennis ball. So basically what I'm saying. If you're standing perpendicular to a wall and fire at it, the possibility of ricochet might be zero depending on the bullet, because it will flatten. If it is mostly grazing a surface, it will just slightly redirect itself and keep much of the energy. So if you're shooting down a long hallway with hard walls, like in your cargo ship example, yeah the ricochets will maximize the amount of projectiles flying down the length of the hallway.>>How do you actually perform a speed reload on an AK?https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=speed+reload+ak
>>9534>They don't have the AK gas piston and have an AR cocking handle so the AK parts are likely purely cosmetic
It's the opposite:
“The manufacturer(s) of these rifles have gone to great lengths in order to imitate the appearance and some of the modularity of the AR-15 self-loading rifle. Generally the modifications to these rifles include an mid-length polymer handguard, a ‘Picatinny’ type rail affixed to the top of the dust cover in imitation of a ‘flat-top’ design, an A2-type front sight base, A2 ‘birdcage’ type flash hider and other muzzle devices, and sometimes AR-15-style collapsible stocks mounted on buffer tubes.”
“The cosmetic influence of the AR-15 is best seen in the front section of the rifles. The handguards are most often of the standard M4-type polymer design with an aluminum heat shield. Less common are those quad-rails. Both are likely of Chinese origin. In the examples found, all handguards are mounted using a delta-ring system. There are no known instances of ‘free-float’ handguards on the Darra rifles.“https://looserounds.com/2019/10/24/dara-ak-15s/
I don't know why I've seen anyone make a real auto sentry with a real gun. I guess it would probably be against the law, because it would count as a booby trap and booby traps are illegal. Man I remember seeing in the mid 00s people making homemade airsoft auto sentry that seemed to work perfectly. I guess the only difficulty with them is keeping them from being fooled by any moving objects. But it would be easy to make one that's impervious to small arms fire and can automatically guard a direction for you (just step in front of it lol.)
Frankly doing something like the John Wick shit would probably be the best method, would even be a better sniper than a human at long ranges.
>>10039>Frankly doing something like the John Wick shit would probably be the best method, would even be a better sniper than a human at long ranges.
By that I meant something where you have a laser pointer that the auto turrets will target. Only saw the trailers, haven't seen the movie, but I had an idea like that like that before the movie came out. Mine was better frankly. My idea was to have a multiple drones with pistols following you that could auto target things on the ground when you point at them with a laser.
Interesting link, never seen this before. What I meant was that while there are AR cosmetic parts on it, the internals were probably solely AR, with the AK parts (the receiver pieces pretty much) on it just being there for ease of production or whatever and having no bearing on the internal function of the gun besides some structural tweaks. I was basing this off the rear cocking handle and presumably AR piston inside, since the handguards wouldn't fit an AK (presumably, can't say I've tried lol).
But then one of the comments on the article says:>Judging by the safeties, I’d guess they are AKs inside.
So it could easily be just as Frankenstein on the inside as it is on the outside. >>10039
Literally wtf do I say the first time I go to a range? Also, what's a good noob gun?
Are you bringing your own firearm or renting? Indoor or outdoor? Do they require you to use range ammo or can you bring your own? Are you going with a knowledgeable friend?
Get a .22 pistol, ask them to show you how to use it, practice with about 100 rounds.
I don't own any, indoor, range ammo, by myself.
Thanks, I didn't know if they'd think i'm retarded for asking how to use it. I like AK-47s for aesthetic reasons, is it less autistic to get an AR-15 in burgerland?
Election years are a bad time to buy and tbqh a $200 ruger 10/22 is prolly the best first gun. Ammo outstrips the price of the gun very quickly if you put real use into it. During normal times 5.56 costs about 30¢ a round, 9mm about 20¢, and .22 like 7¢. It's better to shoot often than to have a safe queen.
Like any hobby, gun enthusiasts love introducing newbies. Call first, tell them you're new and would like to start with a .22 pistol and ask what if any models they have for rent. Watch youtube videos about that gun. When you actually go ask them to walk you through it again. It's normal and they'll be happy to drone on. AVOID POLITICS, most of these guys love cops and Trump and imperialism and American exceptionalism.
If you decide to buy a medium caliber rifle, go with the AR. I like AK's too but ARs are cheaper, softer shooting and more accurate. First gun, tho, I'd get a .22 rifle for fun, or either a 9mm pistol or 12 ga shotgun for home defense. Combloc stuff is for if you decide that you love guns and want a collection.
Good catch, I didn't spot that. I was just going off the upper receiver area, the charging handle and Stoner piston(?) perhaps meaning it has a custom bolt/carrier? Gotta remember this region has a history of making guns entirely from scratch by copying milspec guns they have lying around.
I know I'm repeating myself here, but they've swapped out a core part of the AK dismantling process with a charging handle. I feel like that has some bearing on its function, they wouldn't bother putting it there if it didn't have a function as it's more effort than the button push disassembly they should have copied.
>ARs are cheaper
This isn't true anymore. Any non-failing AR costs as much as a foreign AK. I fell for this bullshit and it got me hurt. I don't know anyone that got a cheap AR without huge problems.
>and more accurate
This is fudd lore. Not only is gravity being a bitch to 7.62x39 not a problem because AKs are available in 5.56x45 (npap85), but they are also available in the vastly superiour 5.45x39 (which is now cheaper than 5.56) and being unable to easily go past 300m isn't much of a problem for most people. old.reddit.com/r/longrange/comments/itad2i/>>10126
Be sure to read other posts, look at that subreddit's wiki, and play around with a calculator before making any purchase. And don't take a rifle to an indoor range. It's too loud. There is an organisation called the Socialist Rifle Association that is run by social fascists but is communist-friendly and some members there might be willing to let you shoot theirs. Wear ear-muffs over earplugs. If you're over the age of 21 you can buy a cheap lower assembly for an AR (or ask if you can buy the lower reciever as a rifle if you're under 21) and spend the money that you saved on and actually-good upper assembly. Primary Arms makes good scopes with amazing reticles. SKSs are always good first guns if you can find them for less than $420 and can see them and inside them before purchasing. Make sure you clean _and lubricate_ before their first use, you don't want and small bits of manufacturing metal flying toward you or anyone nearby or cosmoline sticking the firing pin forward.
best .357 or .38 snub nose revolver
>>10217>This isn't true anymore. Any non-failing AR costs as much as a foreign AK. I fell for this bullshit and it got me hurt. I don't know anyone that got a cheap AR without huge problems.
Define "cheap". A proper AK now goes for upwards of $1k, has little to no compatibility with optics, lights, lasers out of the box and magazines aren't as expensive, nor do they fit into most common gear.
Good luck finding a rifle in that caliber. With 7N6 being banned, you aren't going to find much. And 5.56 AKs either have special magazines or use plastic magwells that don't hold up. As for 5.56 being more generally accurate caliber, this is sort of true if only because you can get 77grn match ammo, but nobody is shooting that. The standard caliber currently in use is the M855A1, and that is definitely more accurate, though, again, good luck getting your hands on some and it will chew your feed ramps unless you get the new style magazines.
Honestly, AKs are cool, but that's all they are. A good AR costs less in the long run.
There are only 300 win, 12 gauge and 6mm creedmoor up in ashland.
There are only 300 win, 12 gauge and 6mm creedmoor up in ashland.
>>5479>They're just looking for self-defense. If that's the case, then just get yourself a good, concealable handgun
Handguns are good for carrying obviously, but are pretty terrible for home defense situations. Rifles/shotguns are more accurate and are MUCH more likely to stop someone in a single shot than a handgun. There are countless horror stories of people unloading handguns into an assailant, only for the assailant to be mostly unaffected and keep charging them. Now obviously that's a rare occurrence, but that kind of shit will almost never happen with a rifle or shotgun.
There's not really much of a point in carrying a snubbie .357 over a compact 9mm. The .357's reputation as a "manstopper" comes from guns with 4-5 inch barrels, anything shorter than 3 inches and it starts to lose a lot of it's power and velocity. Not to mention that a snub .357 has a ton of recoil and is loud as shit, and will probably give you tinnitus/permanent hearing loss if you ever actually have to use it.
then whats a good compact 9mm hangun
CZ-75 PO1 would be my recommendation, though it might be too big.
bump because thread is dying
No it isn't… it wasn't even in the bottom half of the Catalog.
Is it possible to make a "gun" (and some bullets) using random shit bought at a store? I live in Australia so I can't get an actual gun, I really just want to make something to brag to my friends about and shoot tin cans with on the weekend.
absolute gun noob here, can someone explain to me why you need anything more than an AK for most situations?
also why does bullet size matter?
a bullet will wound and kill whether it's large or small
I like these open-ended questions.>why do you need anything more than AK
you honestly don't as a civilian, in most scenarios. an AK chambered in 7.62x39 is going to be effective out to ~500m with a good marksman who can account for the rather large drop of the heavy, slow moving bullet. same can be said for the ar-15, though as a general rule, you will have less drop, wind drift, recoil and kinetic energy. anything beyond this, even in some apocalyptic LARP scenario, is just extra. if you're interested in long range shooting with bolt actions there's many opportunities for it even in gun-restrictive countries, though "sniping" in a self-defense scenario is schizo fantasy territory.
>why does bullet size matter
bigger boolit = more energy
well, actually velocity matters more in regards to kinetic energy (exponential relationship as opposed to linear), but a bigger bullet moving at a slightly lower velocity than a smaller one carries more momentum. for reference, look up videos of ar-15 vs ak barrier penetration tests. the kinetic energy difference is really not enough to make one significantly more deadly than the other, but the ak breaks stuff faster (e.g., cinder blocks) on account of its higher momentum (mv vs. 1/2mv^2)
>a bullet will wound and kill whether it's large or small
nope. handgun murder/assault statistics prove that you are more likely to survive a shooting than die. change it to a rifle and it's a completely different story.
I'm a medical subject matter expert in this field, so I can share some more technical information and photos from my books if you are interested.
oh, I always recommend this as a primer for interested laypeoplehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXwPtP-KDNk
I really like the concept of dual wielding two sub machine guns for defense. I only know this from video games, but is this even a viable strategy in real life? If so what are good compact, affordable semiauto sub machine guns
>>11655>I only know this from video games, but is this even a viable strategy in real life?
It's utterly impossible to fire accurately while doing this, and it would only be even moderately effective out to maybe about 10 meters. Even then, just aiming properly with one gun would be more effective. You could maybe do this with normal semi-auto handguns, but what you're describing is pure vidya/hollywood fantasy.
As a follow up I saw someone recommend ‘hip shooting’ for sharpshooters. I tried it with a nerf gun and I wasnt even anywhere near the target. He said the aiming is ‘intuitive,’ how the fuck do people shoot on target from the hip without aiming? Is this practical and a learnable skill? Wouldn’t dual shooting with pistols kinda be like that? I tried a 9mm and the recoil wasn’t that bad really.
>As a follow up I saw someone recommend ‘hip shooting’ for sharpshooters. I tried it with a nerf gun and I wasnt even anywhere near the target.
>how the fuck do people shoot on target from the hip without aiming? Is this practical and a learnable skill?
It's "intuitive" in the sense that you're aiming for your target based on feel and intuition rather than precisely aiming with your sights. Just like sighted shooting, it takes a lot of practice to become proficient with, and so obviously someone who's new to firearms wouldn't be able to do it effectively. It is indeed practical in certain situations, and will always be faster than taking the time to aim down your sights. During WW2, for example, when US troops in the Pacific would go in to clear a Japanese foxhole, they would often simply tuck the stocks of their Thompson submachine guns underneath their armpits and shoot intuitively, rather than shoulder them and aim down the sights. This technique is only effective in very close range, of course, and using your sights will always be more accurate.
>Wouldn’t dual shooting with pistols kinda be like that?
Well yeah, since you wouldn't be able to use the sights. In actual combat though, there's really no benefit to using 2 pistols over one (partially because you're forced to point shoot which is significantly harder with 2 guns than 1), hence why nobody actually does it in real life.
Documents may not be legal in your jurisdiction.
>>11643>absolute gun noob here, can someone explain to me why you need anything more than an AK for most situations?
AK is enough, though I'd go for an AR if you live in a NATO country. If you are in combat, though, you certainly need a machine gun like an M249 (though they need to be babied)>also why does bullet size matter?
It's one of the elements that matter to external and terminal ballistics. This topic in and of itself could be its own discussion. Suffice to say, that in general, larger diameter bullets carry more energy, though this is very general and not at all what you should be basing your decisions from. There are obviously extreme cases, i.e. .50AE and .50BMG. Same caliber, way different energy. >a bullet will wound and kill whether it's large or small
True, but the point of shooting the enemy is to neutralize him. That means he stops fighting you. Sure, a .22lr might make him bleed to death an hour from now if he goes untreated, but a proper shot from an intermediate round will kill him right there and then.
Hip shooting is a thing for cowboys in movies. Do not do it in real life, you'll only shoot yourself in the leg. This is not a practical skill and no military force with any sort of combat experience practices this. In the old days, it was said that you could get one round off as you were drawing a DA/SA pistol like the M9, because it has such a heavy trigger. This, however causes more problems than it solves. Remember that you're part of an element and, if you shoot unaimed shots like that, you're liable to cause friendly fire incidents. Do not ever do this, and do not practice with a nerf gun, it's not the same. Get out there and train, and remember that the weapon is the last piece of the puzzle. A soldier is more than just a guy carrying a weapon. Train your body and mind first. Just like you read theory, read the manuals, but do not take them as gospel. Combat situations are fluid and what may be in the manuals does not always apply. Make a decision and stick to it. This matters much more than being ultimately "correct."
Clarification, the M9 thing was to get the hammer back after the first round. Though, again, never do this.
Robert de Niro and the other guys in HEAT went deaf for a couple days after they filmed that one sequence actually shooting full auto M16s from inside of cars.
If you understand theoretical fundamentals it is pretty trivial for your average adult male to be able to make individual shots on a human sized target at 25 yards or so. Full auto is very difficult to control outside of spitting distance. If a newbie is spraying down someone at close range with an entire magazine, they'd probably make enough hits to count but also send out a bunch of stray rounds that miss. In an enclosed metal space ricochets would be a potential concern.
.38 special can be loaded anywhere from popgun rounds to stronger than 9mm. It'll get the job done fine with good shot placement. If you want something that feels more powerful without getting into memey hand cannon territory, .357 magnum is a solid and ubiquitous pick. Also remember that virtually any revolver that can fire .357 mag can also fire .38 special
AK speed reload uses your fresh magazine in your support hand to hit the mag release lever and flick the old mag out. Rock the new mag in with the support hand, then reach under and around the gun with the support hand to rack the charging handle while maintaining a firing grip.
A fired centerfire round will have a clear indentation in the primer where the firing pin hit it.
the Obrez existed because nuggets were plentiful and handguns weren't. So if you needed a concealable gun, you made do by chopping the fuck out of a spare nugget until you could fit it under a coat.
They are certainly still lethal but they're ludicrously ineffcient. You're talking about a manually cycled handgun with poor ergonomics and nonexistent sights that produces a deafening blast and fireball. That said, the sheer amount of unburnt powder and gas fireballing out of the muzzle would make a contact shot with an obrez fucking devastaing, because you'd basically be setting off a small explosion inside of someone at the same time as shooting them. In conclusion: Bad fighting weapon, solid last-ditch insurgent/ambush weapon.
Biden's plan, unfortunately would affect bolt-actions as well. However, precision shooting is great, but that's an entire topic of its own.
The Extar EP9 is fucking fantastic for $420
super lightweight compact little 9mm braced pistol that takes glockazines, is low recoil, reliable, and has ergonomics similar to ARs. You can even use AR-15 replacement trigger groups in it.
Bullpup is the superior format, you're just afraid of change
Breech loading bullpup autocannons are obviously the future. Get with the times and break your arm.
there's some obvious drawbacks, such as greater complexity in parts, the inherently worse trigger, potential issues with brass deflection when shooting from your support side, and the heat build-up that seems to plague most designs.
it makes perfect sense if you really need something compact while conserving barrel length, and the weight distribution is quite nice, but it's really nothing but compromises.
try taking apart an x95 down to single components and you start appreciating simple designs. good firearms design is about maximizing performance with the most basic machining operations and materials possible.
why the fuck are all the guns expensive where i am? 1500 for a ksg plus tax plus a 3% for credit card
literally nowhere in my area, I tried. pump actions are a fucking rarity in my area somehow
oh and gunshops fucking hate transfers, they seem to treat me worse because i transfer and not buy their inflated prices. BUT theres only one gunshop that will take from private sellers
Right now everything is getting price gouged to shit because of the massive demand and pileup of multiple rounds of covid scare + BLM civil unrest scare + election scare. Guns are flying off the shelves at a 30+% markup and ammunition costs three times what it did pre-covid, if you can even find any in stock. It's an important time for the left to get into gun ownership, but it's also a really bad time to be a newbie would-be gun owner.
bro it aint a 30% mark up, its 50%-114% i cant imagine being able to mark up titos or some shit beyond 15-20% and to get away with it
Order online anon.
yes, the post-corona nightmare that is getting your first gun. just get the ksg, lad - no matter the cost.
60 bucks for a transfer and shitty service, its what i do already, but good lord, does it all suck ass>>11929
cant reinforce that shitty behavior, im gonna transfer that new lever action by black aces
build your own guns https://outline.com/ZsC2k3 >I can't afford a 3D printer
pool your money with a group of 15 or more people and all of you use it to print guns, you only need to buy one printer to make an infant amount of guns.
do you have 3d printer
Is it possible to become a better marksman/more dangerous with a gun than the average white Republican rightoid who's been shooting since 5 /going hunting without joining the military?
I've been avoiding guns for ages due to mental health issues but having seen the behavior of some people on the right I no longer want to be unarmed as history marches on
If you invest the time, money and effort in to proper training, then absolutely yes. You'll won't get military-level competence, but you can definitely get to the level of your average rightoid gun nut.
Those are chokes, you thread them onto the muzzle to alter the pellet spread and increase range/accuracy.
what countries have the most relaxed gun laws for sporting rifle/ handgun aficionado?
>>12099>you won't get military competence
I've spent enough time in and around shooting circles with active and former military to know that's not really true. the marksmanship standards for any military are not particularly, even for trades that attend dedicated combat schools, like infantry. most any match shooter who does moderately well on a national level is going to absolutely mop up your average grunt in their respective shooting discipline, and most likely snipers as well (if we're talking about long range shooting). shooting at an incredibly high level is a niche skill that even the military often contracts the training out for - I see military snipers pay out of pocket for advanced, civilian precision rifle classes pretty often. this is all part of the greater problem of the military being quite behind the cutting-edge of shooting technology and technique that we see in the civilian competition world. another prime example of this would be high-end optics bleeding over from the civilian to military/LEO sector.
all that said, you won't get the real-life combat experience, nor the synthesis of all your shooting and fieldcraft skills into a dedicated, full-time profession, so while you may shoot a lot better, you aren't a soldier.
I would like to add the very important caveat that shooting is a perishable skill - it doesn't matter if you were a Tier 1 spec ops shitbird 20 years ago. Moreover, the condensed, hyper-focused training offered by high-quality civilian schools can be far superior to anything the military offers, as far as simulated combat training. for example, micah xavier johnson enlisted as a masonry technician and only attended basic training through the US Army - the time spent with his civilian instructor and doing drills in his backyard were enough for him to send an entire police force for a loop, three of whom were ex-Marines and such that he handily killed.
BASED! thanks anon!
The military isn't about shooting. The important thing is vectoring and ability to use tactics. Accuracy doesn't matter with an assault rifle firing 3 round bursts at targets within 20-30 meters.
>>12207>The military isn't about shooting
*isn't ALL about shooting, accidentally deleted that part
Thinking about buying from PSA. How many mags should I get, and should I go with a PSAK-47 or just a regular PSA PA-15?
Budget's about 1500-2000 USD
If you're budget is 1500-1600, you sure as hell better get something better than PSA.
I'd recommend you build your own AR (and look up a guide), or if you really want a pre-built rifle the Sig M400 Tread is a decent option. Just don't buy a fucking PSA, whatever you do.
ah, I just heard PSA was good. There are some gun stores near me so I’ll see what they have first tbh
whatever the military is about, most service members can't shoot for shit on a technical level. I have veteran friends, even some Americans, who flag me constantly and think nothing of it because it wasn't drilled into their head enough - that's how low the bar is for even safety, apparently. stories of ND'ing while on sentry duty because they wanted to "finger fuck" the gun… fucking hell
for your budget range you can do better than PSA
PSA is fine if it's an entry level AR(500-800 range) but you're way beyond that
>>12294>tfw AR parts just shipped today>won't be able to shoot it ever
not surprising, supposedly Biden is planning another big import ban of ammunition and firearms via EO
can't wait for all the redneck gangs that will pop up once their is a gun ban
guns are the new weed
yes, the justice minister is a nigerian immigrant who is also the attorney general of alberta and loves cops. a bizarre turn of events.
I wish this thread got more attention. Literally the only reason I still come to /hobby/ is because of this thread, but it only gets maybe one new post a day, sad. Honestly it really should be on /leftypol/ instead of /hobby/, it would get much more traffic.
yeah i go to /hobby/ only for this thread hoping that someone post something interesting
>tfw you live with your parents and they won’t let you own a gun in their house
time to move out boys
bruh how can i make an ny compliant galil, would any of the thordsen stocks fit?
Hey anons, this isn't a gun-post but I can't find the militaria thread on /leftypol/ so here goes: has anyone made 'Hellcat' packs using a mix of the US ALICE and MOLLE systems? I got some MOLLE shoulder straps but I think they are the wrong ones (enhanced MOLLE 2) and not sure what I should do moving forward. Help me get a rucksack/sleep system for innawoods. Should I just get a full MOLLE pack? Are there smaller tactical backpacks/vests/harnesses that you use?
found a youtube video by Scouting Free where the person is using the same shoulder straps I have. Wish me luck.
whats the best and cheapest bolt action rifle and best cartridge
there is no best anything. Especially if you're also asking for cheap. Look into Savage in the .308
for no specific use, >>12453
is a good recommendation. savage model 10's are cheap, abundant and easy to source parts for. Watch the barrel profile - that's pretty much going to be the biggest factor in how you use it. Unless you want to get into long-range shooting as a separate discipline, look for a sporter contour.
.308 is a great calibre for just about anything the average person would use a bolt action rifle for, though it's also worth looking into 6.5 Creedmoor. It's become commonplace across North America and most people should be able to source cheap factory ammo. the lower recoil, superior ballistics and lower cost per round (in some cases) is desirable. you won't be able to find dirt cheap surplus ammo like you would for the .308, but I personally would not shoot that stuff in a bolt gun and waste perfectly good barrel life
another great option is the Howa 1500/Weatherby Vanguard S2. Build quality is a step above any comparable American factory action (R700, Model 10, Ruger RPR, etc.) and it is more robust by design than the Tikka T3. If you have plans to stick with one action for a long time, the Howa 1500 pretty much gets top points from gunsmiths, as far as mass-produced factory actions go. Savage and Howa are the only two I would consider - I can explain in detail why their contemporaries are inferior
whats a good revolver and i know a pistol is better but i cant get one
just make a Luty gun, the PPS is of course billion times better, but it takes more effort + ammo availability (?)
what is this bastard child of an AKS, a VZ58 and a fucking airgun?????
i'm actually interested in modding my old nerf guns
>>6510>you should try sticking to iron-sights. It's more fun
fucking finally someone gets it, despie my limited experience with firearms (cucked by gun laws here, only on ranges) i always found iron sights more comfortable
i'd love to se /k/ board, /x/ and /k/ are the only reasons why i still stick around the hellhole we call 4chan, i'd love to see bunkerchan /k/ and /x/
or get a 5.56 AK, there's the wz96 Beryl (don't know about it's availability on the US civilain market) and Zastava makes 5.56 AKs
no idea about body armour but i won a red army Y strap rig and its definetly not as bad as people say
tery to use what the cops and military are using, easier supply chain
enough to arm the homies and make a last stand against the boogbois
>>10294>nor do they fit into most common gear>laughs in ex Warsaw Pact country
you can literally get an AK mag pouch and a a Y strap rig for peanuts
i heard the CZ-75 is pretty neat
no, dual wielding ANYTHING is bullshit
i tried hip-shooting with an AEG and it kinda works
Ruger GP100 or SW 686 if you just need an affordable wheelgun. Are you going to conceal this? In that case, I recommend the SW 66 Combat Magnum with a shrouded hammer.
woops, I mean the 442 shrouded - the 66 does not have that option. regardless, the 66 Combat Magnum is a sweet gun and an exposed hammer can be worked around.
Chill out m8, I'm just giving you some advice. What you did just floods the thread with spam and needlessly brings it closer to the bumplimit, it's just better etiquette to reply to multiple posts in one post.
explain why ronald reagan banned carrying guns in california
Difference is we don't consider liberals to be leftists around here. Hell i don't even consider myself a leftist but look at my flag. Anyway Ronnie Reagan WAS an antigun faggot. Propertarians are only progun insofar as the blacks and commies don't have them. Well too late for that one chief. Although i personally find much of the questions in this thread to be embarrassing. Nonetheless it warms my heart to know that people I've never met will better defend themselves against you and your wannabe buddies.
What is it you are trying prove? That i must be antigun now because of the legislation of governments? I have to give up on my personal convictions because of what exactly? Laughable for you to really think this was a "gotcha" moment. You should understand that most of the capitalist world has similarly unjust gun laws. Hell most of the world is antigun where there's a government with the power to enforce such measures. If you think i am here to argue for or against government decisions then you're on the wrong board. Especially decisions that happened before i was born in places I've never been. Y'know it's almost as if all of the countries mentioned had bloody civil wars, revolutions and hardships to overcome. The last thing they wanted to worry about was well armed reactionary insurrection. Especially when the capitalist governments were against them from the get go. Fact of the matter, nothing else to really say further.
The OP explicitly states "Just don't talk about gun control"
Stop baiting and make your own thread for this. Moreover, this debate has already been had on this thread and was deleted. The conclusions were simple, the USSR and most historical socialist countries did not restrict guns any more than most other countries, and that using insane US gun policies and their "gunsies for funsies" libertarianism is a terrible metric to measure gun freedom. Your plebbit links are meaningless and cherrypicked articles from Marxist sites are not helpful either, especially when it's a fairly agreed upon point, gun control =/= gun ban and that gun control under capitalism =/= gun control under socialism, as the material and social conditions are utterly different. Now fuck off with this bad faith debate.
You're not even using the word correctly you fucking dullar
>Marxist regimes were very anti-gun
Your point is a flaccid mess because not being an autistic faggot about guns =/= hating guns. The East and most of Europe treat guns with respect; weapons for shooting and killing or destroying. They aren't toys to be played with for to be used "just for fun" They are tools, you may enjoy using them but cannot forget that fact.
<muh nazi loose control
This meme is such bullshit that you're a fucking retard for not reading into it at all. Jews were banned from owning guns and had them confiscated. Ordinary proles could "legally" buy guns but given that wages dropped in nazi Germany, very few could afford to. You see how convenient that is?
>Swiss gun control
<ignores the Swiss living quite fucking well
<ignores that unlike 'Murica the Swiss don't resort to violence at the drop of a hat.
Like I said, all this garbage has already been covered. FUCK OFF.
>Albanian gun laws today
You mean modern CAPITALIST Albania? Where guns are strictly monitored? LOL
depends on where you live atm, if you live in the western hemisphere then its obvious USA/CAN but if you live in Europe you may have to go through gun clubs
guys what should i attempt to build? an ar15 or an ar10? i like the bigger bullet, is it as viable as 556?
really bad idea for a beginner due to the potential difficulty in parts compatibility and reliability. if you insist on a .308 AR as your first build, make sure do your research and buy only brand name parts. frankly, I would skip this route altogether and just save up for either an LMT MWS, SR-25, JP-10 or GAP-10 in order of personal preference.
.308 rifles are going to be slower in every possible way due to greater recoil or weight. you should have a really good reason for it (e.g., hunting regulations) to pick .308 over 5.56.
this is probably the most unbiased explanation of the pros/cons:https://www.arbuildjunkie.com/5-56-vs-7-62-chuck-pressburg/
greater recoil and weight*
>>12958>frankly, I would skip this route altogether and just save up for either an LMT MWS, SR-25, JP-10 or GAP-10
This is a terrible idea, you can build AR10s that outperform all these rifles for much less, not to mention that you can do a budget build that will do anything you need to, even if it's not top of the line. >you should have a really good reason for it (e.g., hunting regulations) to pick .308 over 5.56.
not necessarily true. The effectiveness of 5.56 relies on its ability to yaw and fragment went it hits a target: if it doesn't do either of those, it won't cause very much damage. The unfortunate truth is that 5.56 has a long history of unreliability when it comes to this–especially out of carbine-length barrels where it loses much of its velocity–leading to horror stories of enemies soaking up 5-8 rounds before going down in Afghanistan and Iraq.
But, IMO the biggest strike against 5.56 is that it has trouble maintaining terminal effectiveness when going up against the modern body armor- indeed, it is for this very reason that the US military has started development on a new 6.8 cartridge to replace it.
Meanwhile, pretty much anyone you hit with 7.62 is going to die, regardless of what armor they're wearing. Not to mention that an AR10 is a do-it-all gun: it's good for hunting, self-defense, pretty much anything you can think of.
I know everything you said and it's an endless debate I've had with myself. first, I would encourage you to watch the full video - on the ground experience is going to more valuable than pontificating in this context, I think. > you can build AR10s that outperform all these rifles for much less
if you can provide a build sheet, it would be appreciated. I admit, I spoke a bit from personal frustration with the experience and I might be out of date with current parts offerings. I really want to cozy up to doing basement builds for .308 like I do for 5.56, but horrible first impressions are hard to get over.
I am not from America, so excuse me if I overlooked any of your state laws.
>upper and lower receivers
smart shopping. rock the proletariat pony. to account for the the off-chance something is drilled or milled out of spec, make sure you are guaranteed good customer support after purchase. I haven't communicated with Anderson at all, but I imagine their warranty is decent, being a sizable company with very high volume production.
stainless is fine - get the most affordable tube and never pay extra for nitriding unless you like black. tubes made of superalloys are an even greater waste of money
should be fine - all the usual points are addressed. I think with the expanse of internet reports and the fact that Battlefield Las Vegas uses them a lot inspires confidence. I like BCM or Colt BCGs for that ultimate piece of mind, but I admit it's just a spook I can't get over.
oh god no - I own of these and I can't even sell it to anyone out of principle. that latchless design WILL eventually fail and you will be bonked in the nose. just get a USGI charging handle, or one of the Gen1 BCM medium latch charging handles if you want comfy
should be fine, same "concerns" as I have for the BCG. remember to coat everything in a thin film of lube before installing
I am really unsure what you are trying to do with this - a 24" stainless steel bull barrel is kind of the opposite of handy and practical. If you really want that rifle length gas system, go for an 18" or 20" barrel. I really do not recommend stainless steel unless you have plans on making this a precision rig. I like Green Mountain Barrels if I want a quality, very affordable milspec barrel. BCM and Daniel Defense are g2g as usual. There's so many barrel makers with varying quality that it's hard for me to give a pinpoint answer here. I can definitely talk more about match grade stainless steel barrels if that is indeed what you wanted (just buy Krieger).
frankly I don't trust it and a quality rail is not too much nowadays. BCM MCMR is my go-to because I hate "clamp-on" systems and it's fairly affordable. Any variant of the Zev Wedgelock rail is also great and offers a more secure lock-up with the barrel nut, but it is more money.
I am not familiar with the dirty bird receiver set, but it seems to check all the boxes. the clamp-on system can be overlooked at that price.
let me know if you have any questions, or need help with your optics selection. I probably know more about that than anything AR.
>>12999>opposite of handy and practical.
my bad, what i mean by practical is something easily maintained and easy to find ammo for. I had a heavier AR in mind, thats why i mentioned i was thinking about an AR10, but according to the article 308 isnt as viable as 556. Also the long and heavier barrel was intended, i just know a longer barrel means better velocity, i know that between 20 and 24 it seems kinda negligible, but im not sure if it is actually, would i be better off with a 20? weight isnt much concern, i cant carry it anywhere and i cant afford to go to the range often, this is gonna be more like a hunkerdown rifle in my mind i guess, plus i can switch it out relatively easily right?. As for the stainless steel part, honestly i had no idea there was a difference i just liked the cool fluting and it was the length i wanted
can you explain to me what a clamp on hand guard is? i feel like google is giving me weird words.
Also how long should my hand guard be (this is assuming i stick with the 24 barrel)?
is this good replacement?
>USGI charging handlehttps://mi-tac.net/sionics-usgi-ar-15-charging-handle/
thank you so much for your help!
also something i heard about is that 556 is gonna be obsolete soon, replaced by a new 6.8 cartridge the us army is planning to switch to, should i just wait until that cartridge drops and becomes mainstream?
How did I do on my first gun? Dropped $1400 on a used sam-7 after lurking local gun market for about a month. Decided to go with the ak because 7.62 is much cheaper and ironically, easier to get ahold of than 5.56 nowadays.
Last year I could have sworn the wasrs were sub $600. Now they go for $1000. Decided to get myself a higher end rifle that’s less inflated than the lower end ones.
I’m now gathering parts required to mount a 1p78 Kashtan that I just bought.
Any recommendations for chest rigs? Should I go for type 81 chicom? What are some cheap options>>13001>also something i heard about is that 556 is gonna be obsolete soon, replaced by a new 6.8 cartridge the us army is planning to switch to, should i just wait until that cartridge drops and becomes mainstream?
Not op but no, you’ll have to wait 15+ years even if that were to happen.
If you're going to spend so much on an ak, why not go for the vastly superiour 5.45x39 which is also cheap?
How much was the optic? Depending on the price, it might have been preferable to buy one of Primary Arms' prism scopes.
Hard to find a decent imported ak74 that doesn’t cost a fortune and 7.62 will always cost less. I feel like $1400 isn’t too much considering an average ak(wasr, zpap) costs about a $1000 now.
I was originally going to mount a Romeo 5 but it turns out I have astigmatism, so I sold it and bought this for $350, which is roughly similar to the primary arms 3x and 1-6x24 acss.
I did a lot of research and I think I did pretty gud.
i am looking to buy a shotgun, they are legal in my country , any suggestions
Just get a Mossberg 500; they're cheap, reliable, good quality and will do pretty much anything you'll ever need a shotgun for.
>>13221>If you're going to spend so much on an ak, why not go for the vastly superiour 5.45x39 which is also cheap?
The "superiority" of 5.45 is really only reelvant for military applications: for a civilian gun owner, you will probably never have to engage a target at long range, which is where the 5.45 has an advantage over 7.62x39. For close/medium range (10-200 meters), 7.62 will do the job just fine.
sorry for the late reply.
I read too much Nick Land as a meme and had a mental breakdown this week - I'm better now.
>can you explain to me what a clamp on hand guard is
yes, sorry - I tend to use terms like everyone else already knows what I'm talking about.
when you look at some handguards, you can see that they are actually "split" or "separated" at the junction with the barrel nut. thus, you will usually end up using a series of screws to apply enough clamping force. this kind of set-up has been known to shift under extreme heat, temperature fluctuations, and just mechanical stress over time.
does this make the handguard useless? absolutely not, but I would be incredibly cognizant of the rail shifting/flexing one way or another, which will affect the zero of your front iron sight and any laser modules. it's just kind of a handicap you have to work around, which is a pain under stress of someone shooting at you.
and yes, anything from sionics is automatically good (no joke). you actually stumbled upon a fairly small, boutique shop for those with exquisite patrician taste. they sell much fancier stuff too, if you ever want to upgrade.
and no, just forget 6.8
you are not army
you are not uncle sam
you are just man
okay i think i got it now, so what length do you think? since i do want a longer barrel i imagine id need a longer handguard, but would 15 inches be okay?
>and no, just forget 6.8
i was thinking more like if the army switches itll flood the market because of the chuds who pretend to be military and the rounds will become cheaper as a result, but yeah itll take a while for any switch to happen, ill just make or buy a new rifle then
again thank you so much
Shot my buddy's mosin a good number of times now and am considering buying it off of him or getting one myself. Worth it or is it LARP and meme-tier? I have a semi-auto rifle already and a handgun, but something about bolt actions just make me coom.
Basically it's the cheapest good rifle you can get. It's no winchester or mauser, but frankly as Voroshilov said; a good marksman is defined by his skill, not his gun.
The 91/30s are good for what they are. Unfortunately what they're going for nowadays you'd be better off getting a M44 carbine or the Chinese Type 53. That is unless you could get a deal for the one from your friend. My personal rule of thumb is no milsurp bolt action worth more than $500 in use value. If a Mosin is more than $450 without the bayonet and cleaning kit you'd be better off getting lower priced Mauser or something.
As far as bolt guns go, Mosins are perfectly fine. Just don't expect to use it as a legitimate defensive weapon, you'll be seriously outgunned.
>>13443>muh human wave>fandom
Yeah that's a totally trustworther and rigorously verified source of information, lmao.
im just surprised theyre still believing this shit
15" is ideal for an 18" barrel imo. Anything longer and you start covering the barrel too much, we causes problems when shooting off barricades, shooting through car windows, etc..>6.8
don't bank on them doing anything quick - the commercial market responding to such a thing would take a lot of time alone.
keep in mind as well, there is still A LOT of 5.56 rifles and ammunition floating around North America and I doubt the US government is going to just destroy a bunch of old M16-pattern rifles. again, it's your call, but after having the same paranoia over 6.5 grendel and 6.8 SPC, I just stopped caring until it's in right in my face, on the Cabela's shelf in bulk. moreover, 77gr OTM and TMK rounds can really stretch the capacity of the 5.56 in terms of wounding potential and range - astonishing in a 14.5" to 18" barrel, really. I would not use ball ammo for any serious application, such as self-defense, unless you are really short on cash.
for non-amerifats: what's firearm access like in your country? are there many shooting ranges?
there are alot of shooting ranges
but gun laws are very strict you are only allowed to own them if your a hunter or shoot as a sport
well can't anybody shoot as a "sport??"
Yes but there are background checks you have to take a test and other annoying stuff
Literally all it takes to generate a legion of autismo larpers is catchy music
Rhodesian music isn't even that good…
Is that even a debate? AR's are better in every concievable way. The only advantages an AK has at this point (and for a while now) is the massive surplus that still gets sold around the world makes it more accessible in certain countries.
>>14949>heavier>more unwieldy>harder to use rails>significantly less accuracy due to gas operation, especially less accurate over more than 300 yards>reliability is real but kind of a meme if youre not literally burying weapons caches or fighting a guerilla war, accuracy and compatability with grips and scopes and access to ammunition also all play into practical reliability
AKs are very cool and great guns, dont get me wrong. Ultimately its a matter of cost and ease of access, but if you have access to both, the AR is superior.
lift more>more unwieldy
Better action tho, mine hasn't jammed once (I do clean it well). The AR has issues ejecting rounds>harder to use rails
Most combat will happen between 100-200 meters, learn how to use the iron sights. Don't fw optics until you learn iron sights.>significantly less accuracy due to gas operation, especially less accurate over more than 300 yards
The likelihood of hitting shit accurately in combat at 300 yards unless you're in a stationary position and aren't under fire is a larp.>reliability is real but kind of a meme if youre not literally burying weapons caches or fighting a guerilla war, accuracy and compatability with grips and scopes and access to ammunition also all play into practical reliability
Its not a meme. Unless you fuck up loading magazines it literally won't jam. 7.62x39 rn is cheaper going for about 47-49 cents a round. 5.56 is like a dollar per round if not more. AK ammo is becoming more prevalent in the USA with increased importation and domestic manufacturing of AKs.
I do. Weight still matters, dumb argument.
>Don't fw optics until you learn iron sights.
I almost exclusivly shoot with iron sights.
>Most combat will happen within 200m
What combat? Without knowing the situation it's perfectly sensible to advocate for a firearm that can work at a longer range if necessary.
>unless you're in a stationary position and aren't under fire is a larp.
See above. ARs are also measurably more accurate down to 50 yards.
>7.62x39 rn is cheaper going for about 47-49 cents a round. 5.56 is like a dollar per round if not more. AK ammo is becoming more prevalent in the USA with increased importation and domestic manufacturing of AKs
Didnt know this, have a pool of 5.56 rounds between buddies and havent checked prices in years. This is a legitemate argument for preferring AKs so long as ammo remains that much cheaper. I am nonetheless skeptical that 7.62 rounds would be easier than 5.56 to come across in the US if you werent able to openly purchase them.
Otherwise everything youre saying is "minor issue, doesnt matter", even when I said in my post that the AK is a great rifle and it's a matter of minor (but not insignificant) advantages.
they've specifically banned AKs in the past and you can get 5.56 from cops/army
When the fuck are ammo prices coming back down? This is bullshit
awsin.com/50680-split-front-chest-rig/ + esstac.com/7-62-double-kywi-tall/
velsyst.com/collections/chest-rigs/products/ultra-lite-split-front-chest-rig + esstac.com/7-62-double-kywi-tall/
tacticaltailor.com/fightlightmav2piece.aspx + esstac.com/7-62-double-kywi-tall/
Are these my only options for decent 7.62x51-capable front-splitting chest-rigs at sub-240$?
I think I might prefer canvas-lidded velcro-shutting pouches. What are there as that?>>14946>>14950>>14951>>14952
>Is the AK or AR superiour?
ARs generally have tight tolerances and less exposed important area than AKs. This keeps mud from getting inside the chamber (preventing loading) and the trigger mechanism (preventing hammering) but makes it lock up in cold temperatures. When it was -9F/-19C a few months ago in the prisonhouse of nation's "midwest" ARs would fail to autoload but AKs would not.
>significantly less accuracy due to gas operation, especially less accurate over more than 300 yards>The likelihood of hitting shit accurately in combat at 300 yards unless you're in a stationary position and aren't under fire is a larp.>What combat? Without knowing the situation it's perfectly sensible to advocate for a firearm that can work at a longer range if necessary.
Lighter bullets from 5.56x45 and the vastly superiour 5.45x39 are pushed by wind more than the heavier 7.62x39 bullets. Range doesn't matter much as long as one has markings on their prism scope for bullet-drop compensation and wind, and training with them.
>7.62x39 rn is cheaper going for about 47-49 cents a round. 5.56 is like a dollar per round if not more.
5.45x39 is again vastly superior to 7.62x39 and 5.56x39 for the lag in the movement of its price. It was only less than a few months ago that 5.45x39 finally went from 0.33$ per round to 0.45$.
>>15645> ARs generally have tight tolerances and less exposed important area than AKs. This keeps mud from getting inside the chamber (preventing loading) and the trigger mechanism (preventing hammering) but makes it lock up in cold temperatures.
You're correct about cold temperatures. Do tighter tolerances help keep mud out of the chamber? Sure, but they also mean that small debris in mud can jam up the action way easier. Looser tolerances allow more wiggle room in that regard, and AKs generally preform better on mud tests (you can find at least one popular video on the subject showing different results, but watch out for the guy using an already broken AK). This doesn't mean that looser tolerances are always good – with well maintained rifles, you're gonna have a much easier time shooting a chest sized target from 500 yards with an AR.
>>2045>what if I wanted to limit myself to a sovjet arsenal?
Then you'd be fucked once surplus soviet ammo is not available. Go get a Tokarev but don't make it your only gun baka. Get some 9mms as well.
I don't think they will be coming down, so many people are stocking up and new gun owners (at least in the USA) are rising. I just convinced my cousin to start hand loading and that's the only way he has been able to continue to shoot. Otherwise, looking on ammoseek or a similar site to try and find decent deals.
Either bite the bullet and just do that class with them or try to find trusted people/comrades and go into a class together where you can at least feel semi-comfortable.
Any anon know about holland and holland or browning im in the uk so a bit boringposadasPosadas
wholly needless. 6,5grendel would be interesting, but a 5,56.45 ak has no place.
Huge .pdf dump from our anonfriends
there is already a /k/ thread>>>/hobby/2042
No one uses /hobby/
Well then use it you fucking waste.
what is it with /k/unts and thinking their puny little small arms and tight groupings are going to be like the second coming of Marx or Mussolini, the political power of the gun is built thrown organization and discipline, not through your individualist hero violence fantasies
saged for a shit thread of adventurism and bloodlust>>17706
CJNG is actually decently trained as far as cartels go. It's the result of these cartels becoming more and more militarized as ex-special forces get into the drug racket. A lot of em also have more practical combat experience than you will ever have through shitposting online
it's fucking propaganda you idiot, you're just nitpicking against a bunch of Mexican teenagers trained by AWOL Mexican military guys roped into something they don't understand. these aren't fat suburbanites going to the range with their silicone earplugs, you aboslute fucking sheltered retard, if you can shoot but can't do cardio just shut the fuck up about cartel sicarios whose primary purpose is to kill without compunction, that's more important to cartels than getting some nice groups at the range with your fat American bros so you can go for a burger afterwards
thats exactly my point you piece of shit, cartels exist to make money and they harass, intimidate, and murder opponents in the process with the sicarios being an important part of that. now the reason you /k/unts fetishize US special forces training methods as is because you approach guns from an MMA perspective, you don't ever to actually plan to use it because all of your ideas revolve around tactics instead of strategy. now when the CPC was formed with a small cadre, their first instinct wasn't "let's go to Germany and see how the Prussians conduct drill and marksmanship exercises" it was formulating a coherent STRATEGY
you are making the same mistake all right wing dopes make, an emphasis on tactical superiority before you even understand what you'd be applying these tactics to, you retards always put the cart before the horse
god you are insufferably stupid. the Taliban is about to have the same outcome as North Vietnam did, don't bring Vietnam into this rant over "muh spics muh stupid sanduyghurs who dont' know about trigger discipline", it's more tactics worship that is more inline with Wehrmacht fanboyism than any serious analysis of how criminal organizations or other organizations with a similar lack of organization can't reach the level of militaries backed by state funding.
who gives a shit about any US Marines? oh no they're conducting an operation in our area and we can't defeat them conventionally! oh wait the Taliban just melts back into the civilian population and any reprisals only grow the Taliban, so the US was fucked from the start. again, you don't understand war and only understand the lowest level of tactical engagements between small platoons or squads
Huh? Just go to /hobby/ if you want to circlejerk about your guns buddy
>>17704>Also is there a leftists explanation as to why most criminals are fucking horrendous with guns
Not an explanation, just speculation. The guys at the top of organized crime want subservient and stupid people to do their dirty work, so they don't challenge the guys at the top. So people with no skills or training are employed to carry out crime.
>>17721>most vietnam war victims were either vietcongs or civilians which resulted in millions of causalities along with what happened in afghanistan, iraq and in the korean war along with what's happening in non american affairs like nigeria vs boko haram, kenyans vs alshabaab, mexican cartels vs the police, the saudis vs everyone etc.
are you implying the average Viet Cong or NVA soldier was a criminal? what the fuck are you smoking and how did you find your way to leftypol? is this how /k/ommandos justify killing insurgents, they're just all looters and bandits? actually, come to think of it, my family is Asian anti-communists and would refer to communists as "bandits" so i guess it's just a global right wing trope
What were the VC smoking when they sent soldiers into battle with no training?
Of course I'm not referring to the vietnamese as criminals, I'm saying that compared to actually trained and experienced us infantry the VC and NVA were going to get themselves killed. I also referenced similar situations in other conflicts
VC were trained very adequately for their primary purpose, which was to harass and keep US forces at a distance, mostly through booby traps and ambushes. It was really only during like the Tet Offensive that they blew their wad and lost tons of troops in failed assaults. And NVA troops were quite well trained by the late 60's, just look at their record against US troops at the 17th parallel border zone. But, >>17725
doesn't realize that this was the kind of war where dying might do more than killing.
See, Americans have this Patton-like idea where war is about killing, but tbh in these kinds of national liberation struggles it's really more about dying, or rather building up the kind of citizen who is willing to sacrifice themselves without a thought as long as they believe it will help the cause. Americans have never had that mentality because there has never been a situation where their country and people were at risk of actual subjugation, and no, ZOG doesn't count.
Get a load of this reactionary. No, faggot, if you aren't law enforcement of a socialist state you don't have a right to own a fucking gun.
All gun faggots will have their guns taken from them, no exceptions.
You got war wrong fren, war is about forcefully securing land or assets. Killing isnt always needed you just gotta take over and defend much like how the trump administration had a trade war with china over outsourced labour or how the drug war can be killed literally by legalizing and nationalizing the production of safe recreational drugs like weed
You’re a liberal and are not welcome on this forum. Piss off
>>17728>you just gotta take over and defend much
You just described and handwaved away the hardest part about defeating any insurgency and connected to a fucking trade dispute? Niqqa please, I don't get why such rightoid retards are always attracted to firearms. I like them too, but holy shit I have always noticed this kind of tacticool-obsessed retard who also has absolute shit takes on politics coming from a weird libertarian position that actually doesn't give a shit about libertarian politics but just wants to shoot other people
where is mao's guerrilla book? I thought this was /leftypol/.
This thread seems to be bait for lolbertarians to come crawling out of the woodwork, all of the dumb shit I used to see on /k/ is present in the form of these couple retards, these guys actually think knowing how to shoot a gun provides them insight into geopolitics and warfare
low effort false flag
>>17704>I wanna /k/ board but this site is unpopular and the people on it are pusssies that dont know how to aim or use a gun for shit.
It's not rocket science.
>Also is there a leftists explanation as to why most criminals are fucking horrendous with guns
Probably because they never go to the range. Why are cops so shit at aiming?>>17711>Yeah I doubt the people that are so poorly trained that they keep their guns loaded when they arent using them and openly post their locations online along with not having enough common sense to wear earplugs to prevent themselves from going completely deaf are learning batshit fucking anything.
Muh earplugs. If you're not practicing without them you're kind of retarded. What are you going to do when shit goes down and you only time to pull out your gun, but not time to carefully put in some earplugs? You're going to get scared and distracted by the sound and fuck up worse than everyone you think you're superior to. Are all "justifiable homicide" fantasizers this way? What's the point of practicing your quick draw if you don't practice your shooting without hearing protection?
Go to hobby retard
This site only has 105-120 people on it at any given interval faggot, no ones gonna use that board if theres already a thread here
Exactly, go use the other boards, they need the traffic.
>>17737>intentionally damaging your hearing
and now the thread is dead. 10/10
we need more users
Is this really from TPUSA?
should've been merged with the other thread imo
jannoids gonna jann
>>17738>not building your own range in your backyard
Wheres a good cheap place to buy premade guns. I dont know how to assemble them and all that.
Flea markets, gun shows, wherever locally. You can also get from gunbroker and get them shipped to someone with a FFL.
Anyone know of any openly leftist gun YouTubers?
Forgotten Weapons (maybe)
some Russian weapon channels
What is it? Looks like an mp5
yup, basically an MP5 but 22lr and cheap
>M16, AR-10, AR-15 rifles and M4 carbine and all clones of them recently banned in Klanada
fuck. what's a good alternative? might just get a chinese surplus SKS and learn to be happy with it
Assembling AR-15's is extremely easy and there's plenty of guides for it. The main thing you need to know is you'll likely need a very long allen wrench for the grip screw and a set of punches.
I know this isn’t fully gun related but could w also talk about patches in the thread? I think only a few of us have guns so this might bring more life to the discussion if we talk about something everyone and anyone can have
Holy fuck this site is dead. Heard you guys were still kicking around from faggots on tardchan complining about raids. Don't know why bunkerchan is gone, but here we are. I'm not trying to swing my dick around, but if you're new or just don't have any real world experience, feel free to ask. I won't tell you anything too sensitive, but we're losing the arms race, and that needs to stop.
>>21597>faggots on tardchan complining about raids.
It's free adverting living rent-free in their heads. We literally don't do anything and they yell our name.I wouldn't call 1500 posts a day dead, by that metric everything is dead compared to 4chan. This timezone does suck though.
But yeah feel free to also check out the current /roulette/ theme (oh shit this is meant to be the last day, but there was a delay in changing so they might keep it longer).
Thanks a lot, fam. Didn't even know that was there.
soviet/russian/chinese/balkan surplus stuff are available anywhere
also, start with a carbine like the SKS. handguns and rifles are too specialized
Hold on, what do you mean that rifles and pistols are too specialized? I mean, I don't disagree with you, a semi-auto rifle like the SKS is just fine, but you should also take into account that the weapon you are most likely to use in self-defense is a pistol, not a rifle under some sort of home invasion. People often ignore pistol skills and that can really come to bite you in the ass.
i'm not even that into guns, but it's pretty obvious a smaller gun can be maneuvered more easily in a small space like a room
why would pistol be more useful in a home defense situation than a carbine/rifle?
It's not more easily to maneuver see this >>21682
In very close combat it could be easier to grab your rifle and disarm you, than to grab your pistol. You can mount a knife to the front of a rifle or use it as a club, tho.
Pistols are just meant to be small, so they can be hidden or take up less space, rather than be a better weapon for some scenarios.
that video doesn't show anything lol. all of them were maneuvering their guns in exactly the same way
Did you get the point of the video? The point is that the size difference between a long gun and a pistol while aiming is negligible, only a few inches, because while aiming with a long guns your hands are bent, and with a pistol your arms are fully extended. That guy only talked about the stopping power advantage of a long gun but he didn't even mention what I've heard a lot of experts say, which is long guns are better for novices because the recoil is mitigated by the stock, whereas with a pistol people often hit everything but what they're aiming at because they can't control the recoil.
In a home defense situation, not so much, but the point of a pistol is that you take it with you. I carry one every day, and I wear it around the house. Just based off probability, you'll be using something like that more often. Of course, the ideal thing is to use it to end things quickly or fight your way to a rifle.
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