Do It Yourself
ITT:
Everything DIY
>Handymanship/Making™
>Transferable skills in revolution/collapse
>Sustainability and Self-Sufficiency
>Guides and Blueprints
>Home Improvement/Maintenance
if you're bougie enough to own your home
Don't post shit that will get you or the site v&.
53 posts and 18 image replies omitted.>>27853lmfao youre shitposting right
bro you need to fix that leak asap
>>28366 (me)
okay that place is just a money laundering operation for property developers or something because I found the same shit at home depot for a quarter of the price and yes the vinyl gutters are half the price of the aluminum ones
>>28369if you live in an apartment cant you just complain to the landlord?
idk about the wall collapsing but the water will do a ton of damage and fill your place with mold, at this point the wall doesnt matter, needs to be busted down and whatever leaking fixed. Probably isnt even a big job
>>28371aight, i've called a plumber,
that's the person to call for this job right, or is a mason required instead
>>29077I'll go with the adhesive, I'm the same guy with the wall leaking water issue
I talked to the mason and plumber and they said applying tiles will stop the leaking, and force the water to go down from somewhere else
Landlords aren't the only bastards,
Even the builders who build such dogshit houses are enemies
>>29071Thanks. ya I probably was overthinking it.
Ended up using cinderblocks because the whole point here is to get water away from the foundation of the garage, so digging a hole and filling it with grave right beside said foundation is probably a bad idea. Havent actually filled them with water yet but it seems stable enough.
Now im putting on the gutters and jesus its a pain because the garage itself is ancient and practically falling over so nothing is level. Im basically trying to get water to flow uphill but I think ive got it now, waiting for a rain this afternoon to see what else I need to move and or patch with caulk.
In retrospect spending the extra money for seamless gutters might been worth it
>>30895I don't think it's a good idea, poster paint is generally pretty thin, would take forever to get an opaque layer on the wall.
a better option would be to find a secondhand contractor supply place (like habitat for humanity's ReStore) and buy an opened bucket of acyrlic housepaint.
as far as your UPS, a store bought shelf should be fine, as long as its anchored to studs in your wall (assuming you have drywall, it's different for masonry/concrete). You will definitely need both a drill and a stud finder to do it safely.
you could also pick up a shelf at ReStore for cheap. Check pawn shops for a good deal on a drill, its a popular item for resale by junkies etc, can often be got cheap.
>>30898but it isn't dangerous to use poster tho, right? like lead or breathing the air of it?
i just want cover up little doodles on the ugly spots, you got any ideas?
>>35327Probably not much more than the standard amount of microplastics in everything.
Ventilate well and long while it's drying, and for while after too.
>>41600torx is best screw
>Phillipsuncams, ruining the headnothing personell, kid
>Flatheadyou mean slotted? literally the worst
>>41606how do you even ruin a torx head? it's literally never happened to me, whereas working with ph/pz all but guarantees camming out and ruining the head, even with the correct bit
>a Pozidriv screw solves the issues of the Phillipsno they don't lol. both are designed to cam out to limit torque rather than using a torque wrench. it's profound retardation
I'll give you that Robertson are pretty good, but I rarely run across them
>>41608I can ask the same of you, Phillips and PZ almost never fail for me, while TOrx constantly fucking wears into nothing, no matter how delicately you try to screw it in.
>both are designed to cam out to limit torque rather than using a torque wrench. <pozidriv Anta baka?
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/what-is-pozidriv-is-it-different-from-phillips/ >Robertson are pretty good, but I rarely run across themMostly Canadian or in older construction.
>>41610what would probably be best is a straight recessed slot, since the force would be perfectly radial and basically impossible to strip, and the slot shape would keep the screw on the driver. the more corners you add (triangle, robertson, hex, torx) the less strong they become
>https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/what-is-pozidriv-is-it-different-from-phillips/ this repeats my point:
>The Torx, or Star, drive style vastly changes the design of the drive recess. Due to the star having six points of contact (6-Lobe), the screw uses a truly radial force rather than an axial force. Phillips and Pozidriv screws use an axial force to drive the screw which is not as effective and is more likely to cause cam-out. For manual applications, Torx screws are quickly becoming the most popular choice. >>41614When repairing a computer they don't come with spare screws, and if you're replacing a splintered door-frame and the screw thread is fine, then they should be re-usable, but when you have to be hyper-gentle with the head, it makes everything harder, and screwing them in is harder too, an overall pain in the ass, hence my loathing for them.
Also Phillips, flathead and even hex screws are much more common in most areas, and so the appropriate screwdrivers are more common meaning I need to go out of my way to retrieve a specific screw-driver head just for this one type, which is an additional annoyance.
>>41615sounds like typical M3 screws in tapped holes. I don't see how you can fuck those up
I use torx for woodworking all the time, never had a problem. granted those are a bit bigger screws but still
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