Note these aren't my recipes I snagged them off of reddit so they may not work
Napalm is a mixture of polymer/aluminum soap powder/gelling agent, gasoline, and benzene. However, a simplified recipe is gasoline and styrofoam insulation or packing peanuts, the styrofoam dissolves immediately forming a gel that is very thick and slow moving, then you light it, then it gets interesting, it becomes the napalm popularized by the Vietnam war and yes, it does stick to anything. Also, leaving it out on a flat sheet in a cool area like a garage slowly turns it rubbery so you can “adjust” the consistency of necessary. Do not light it indoors EVER.
To make a pipe bomb, you will need tape, a shoelace, vinegar, dry ice, and nitrogen chloride available at your disposal. You can find these materials at your local hardware store, including Lowe's and Home Depot locations. The first step you need to take is to find a suitable container for your explosive. For this tutorial, I am going to be using a plastic water bottle for example. Place about 50 mg of nitrogen chloride in the bottle, then insert your dry ice carefully. Mix your contents with about 1/2 spoon of vinegar in the bottle. Close and shake your bottle carefully and allow the dry ice to impact the cap. The point of impact will become where you attach your shoelace. Tape your shoelace onto the impact point. Upon usage, the flame will transmit kinetic energy to the dry ice mechanism.
pipe bomb -2 inch diameter pipe 6 inches long with two threaded ends -two threaded pipe end caps -Teflon Pipe Tape -Plastic air tight zip lock freezer bags -Alcohol -Matches -Candle -Electric Drill with drill bit -Tube of Liquid Nail Glue -Bag of Cotton Balls -Broom Handle -Explosive Materials -Gun Powder -Ruler -Black Magic Marker. -Fuse using ruler & magic marker, mark one inch lines on the outside of the pipe, upside down from use drill hole in the center of 1 pipe cap. slightly larger than the fuse Insert the fuse, about two inches long drop hot candle wax on both sides of the hole in the cap apply the teflon tape to the top of the pipe. alcohol wipe both of the pipe cap threads clean, let dry. Screw on pipe cap cut the ends of the wooden matches off & drop match heads into pipe pack about inch of compressed cotton into the pipe. fuse must extend past the cotton Use a broom stick to compact the cotton cut small hole in bottom of the plastic bag and load into pipe, fuse goes inside the bag. Pull the bag up and over the open end of the pipe fill the bag with the gun powder seal the zip lock bag and stuff it inside the pipe. Put cotton in any space. Don't pack Wipe the inner and outer threads of the pipe with a damp washcloth, don't spill water in pipe clean the outside of the pipe threads with alcohol and let dry. apply the teflon tape to the threads of the pipe. Gently screw bottom cap on. Secure both caps with Liquid Nail Glue
FERTILIZER EXPLOSIVE An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and either fuel oil or a mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When properly prepared, this explosive munition can be deto- nated with a blasting cap. MATERIAL REQUIRED: Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen) Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1 ratio) Two flat boards. (At least one of these should be comfortably held in the hand, i.e. 2 x 4 and 36 x 36.) Bucket or other container for mixing ingredients Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy-walled cardboard tube Blasting cap Wooden rod - 1/4 in. diameter Spoon or similar measuring container PROCEDURE:
Spread a handful of the ammo- nium nitrate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 min). NOTE: Proceed with Step 2 as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture from the air and become spoiled.
Mix one measure (cup, table- spoon, etc.) of fuel oil with 16 measures of the finely ground ammo- nium nitrate in a dry bucket or other suitable container and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not avail- able, use one half measure of gasoline and one half measure of motor oil. Store in a waterproof container until ready to use.
If you have the bare minimun knowledge of electronics, you can take a quartz clock, like those cheap ones made in China, add wires to the minute and hour hands and set the thing to close the circuit "at midnight", short-circuiting a battery, maybe on some iron wool to set it on fire, which ignites the TATP which is really easy to explode.
LSD Recipe for you hippies
A solution of 6.7 g KOH in 100 mL H2O, under an inert atmosphere and magnetically stirred, was brought to 75 °C, and 10 g ergotamine tartrate (ET) added. The reaction mixture turned yellow as the ergotamine went into solution over the course of 1 h. The stirring was continued for an additional 3 h. The reaction mixture was cooled to about 10 °C with an external ice bath, and acidified to a pH of about 3.0 by the dropwise addition of 2.5 N H2SO4. White solids started to appear early in the neutralization; approximately 60 mL of sulfuric acid was required. The reaction mixture was cooled overnight, the solids removed by filtration, and the filter cake washed with 10 mL Et2O. The dry solids were transferred to a beaker, suspended in 50 mL 15 % ammonia in anhydrous ethanol, stirred for 1 h, and separated by decantation. This extraction was repeated, and the original decantation and the second extract combined and filtered to remove a few hundred milligrams of unwanted solids. The clear filtrate was stripped of solvent under vacuum, the residual solids dissolved in 50 mL of 1% aqueous ammonia, and this solution was acidified as before with 2.5 N H2SO4. The precipitated solids were removed by filtration and washed with Et2O until free of color. After drying under vacuum to a constant weight, there was obtained 3.5 g of d-lysergic acid hydrate, which should be stored in a dark, sealed container.
A suspension of 3.15 g d-lysergic acid hydrate and 7.1 g of diethylamine in 150 mL CHCl3 was brought to reflux with stirring. With the external heating removed, there was added 3.4 g POCl3 over the course of 2 min, at a rate sufficient to maintain refluxing conditions. The mixture was held at reflux for an additional 5 min, at which point everything had gone into solution. After returning to room temperature, the solution was added to 200 mL of 1 N NH4OH. The phases were separated, the organic phase dried over anhydrous MgSO4, filtered, and the solvent removed under vacuum. The residue was chromatographed over alumina with elution employing a 3:1 C6H6/CHCl3 mixture, and the collected fraction stripped of solvent under hard vacuum to a constant weight. This free-base solid can be recrystallized from benzene to give white crystals with a melting point of 87-92 °C. IR (in cm-1): 750, 776, 850, 937 and 996, with the carbonyl at 1631. The mass spectrum of the free base has a strong parent peak at mass 323, with sizable fragments at masses of 181, 196, 207 and 221.
This base was dissolved in warm, dry MeOH, using 4 mL per g of product. There was then added dry d-tartaric acid (0.232 g per g of LSD base), and the clear warm solution treated with Et2O dropwise until the cloudiness did not dispel on continued stirring. This opaqueness set to a fine crystalline suspension (this is achieved more quickly with seeding) and the solution allowed to crystallize overnight in the refrigerator. Ambient light should be severely restricted during these procedures. The product was removed by filtration, washed sparingly with cold methanol, with a cold 1:1 MeOH/Et2O mixture, and then dried to constant weight. The white crystalline product was lysergic acid diethylamide tartrate with two molecules of methanol of crystallization, with a mp of about 200 °C with decomposition, and weighed 3.11 g (66%). Repeated recrystallizations from methanol produced a product that became progressively less soluble, and eventually virtually insoluble, as the purity increased. A totally pure salt, when dry and when shaken in the dark, will emit small flashes of white light.
How to make meth
Making Methamphetamine at home:
List of chemicals and materials: Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section
NaOH - also called lye
Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone
Ephedrine The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain efed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most people perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will fuck up the molar ratio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell durring baseifying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the lable on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning your pills. but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pills with a red coating, you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want pills with much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you have a two pills that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usualy harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up durring the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it…I would just make ephedrine and say it's meth.
Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff from the tap. Do things right.
List of equipment : A glass eyedropper
Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One should be clear (and it can't be the marked one).
A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)
A glass quart jar
Sharp scissors
Clean rubber gloves
Coffee filters
A measuring cup
Measuring spoons
Preparing your Lab:
Preparing Ethyl Ether: WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much.
Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it stand.
Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable.
Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine: Please discuss this on the neonjoint forum
• Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.
• Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether (it -is- soluble in ether).
• Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear.
• Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.
• Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step 11!
• If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.
• Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but I have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl.
If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.
First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HClEstimated: 300mg (100% of theoretical, disregarding HCl)
Now, Making Methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with Hydroiodic Acid and Red Phosphorus.
Items needed: Alot of matchbooks (the kind with the striking pad)
Coffee filters (or filter paper)
Something that measures ml and grams
A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)
iodine
Hydroiodic Acid (I will tell you how to make this)
Red Phosphorus (I will tell you how to make this)
Lye
*Optional (toluene and HCI gas)
Making Red Phosphorus: The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus. The determined experimenter could obtain a pile of red phosphorus by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a sharp knife. A typical composition of the striking pad is about 50% red phosphorus, along with about 30% antimony sulfide, and lesser amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder. I don't think these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction. Naturally, it is a tedious process to get large amounts of red phosphorus by scraping the striking pads off matchbooks, but who cares?
Making Hydroiodic Acid: This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making hydroiodic acid from iodine and red phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete reaction by standing for 24 hours before adding the ephedrine to it. It is very important that the mixture is allowed to come to complete reaction! The reaction should proceed for about 24 he has before adding the ephedrine to it.
Making Methamphetamine: To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 100 ml of water. This is placed in the refrigerator until the ice melts. Then, 20 ml of hydroiodic acid (about 25 grams) is added to the flask. The water will start to boil. After the water boils for about 5-7 min, 80-90ml of 10% HCl (about 15g) is added, and the mixture is stirred vigorously using a magnetic stirrer. This will cause the mixture to bubble vigorously for another 5-10 minutes. During this time, the mixture will darken. At this point, you should turn off the stirring and allow the mixture to settle for about 30 minutes.
After the mixture has settled, the mixture is filtered through a coffee filter, and the filtrate is decanted into a flask with a few drops of toluene in it. This will prevent the formation of a precipitate. The mixture is then stored in the fridge until needed. It is recommended that the mixture be kept in the fridge to prevent it from decomposing.
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Onions, garlic, and other strong smelling foods are good for masking the odor of meth labs. These substances are known as Naphthalene scavengers. It is important that a meth lab never be found, since the discovery of a meth lab can lead to you-know-what conscequences.
DIY Nuclear Reactor
Current Instructions and Materials
Materials Needed:
Radioactive Materials
Thorium (Th釷) - Lantern Mantle’s
Lithium (Li鋰) - Lithium Battery
Charcoal (C碳)
Foil - Aluminum foil
Gas Torch
Radioactive Fuel
Americium (Am镅) - Hundreds of smoke detectors
Radium (Ra鐳) -
Neutron Gun
Americium (Am镅) - Hundreds of smoke detectors
Lead Block (鉛Pb)
Foil - Aluminum foil
Explanation:
Neutron Gun
The Neutron gun makes the radiation more focused and strong in the point where it was pointed, it’s kinda like the x-ray machine, it goes through flesh and metal, so this is the reason that we are using a led block to block radiation from Americium
Instructions:
Radioactive Blocks
The first burn as many Lantern Mantle’s as possible, you will then get powder-like substance, then wrap it all up with lithium from a battery and charcoal in aluminum, heat it up in a tin can filled with cooking oil, and we’ll get the radioactive Thorium fuel we need for the reactor.
Neutron Gun
First, dig a hole in the lead block, then insert americium cubes into the lead block, finally, block the hole on the lead block with foil paper, and the neutron gun is finished.
Radioactive Fuel Core
Wrap up the Americium and Radium into the foil paper so we could be testing the new product